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	<channel>
		<title><![CDATA[Fuel-Saver Forums - All Forums]]></title>
		<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Fuel-Saver Forums - http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Nov 2008 02:23:54 -0700</pubDate>
		<generator>MyBB</generator>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[hho into gas line?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2453</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Nov 2008 20:21:39 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2453</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[why is every one hooking up there hho through air intake???<br />
<br />
is reason why not to patch hho into gas line.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[why is every one hooking up there hho through air intake???<br />
<br />
is reason why not to patch hho into gas line.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Help.. Question]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2452</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Nov 2008 15:41:19 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2452</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a 2008 Chevy Avon with a small cell and a PWM. I recently installed an EFIE on my Oxygen sensor. After driving on the road without any problems for over an hour, I stopped at a store. When restarted, I got down the road about 3 miles and the car suddenly wouldn't run. It would idle but wouldn't accelerate. I didn't get a check engine light but I opened the hood and took a look. Everything looked normal so I started it up and took off again only to get less then a mile and it did it again but this time I got a check engine light. The computer went into open loop.<br />
    I opened the hood and loosened the B+ lug on the EFIE and pulled the wire out to shut it down with the car still running. As the wire came out it was sparking to ground like it was a spark plug wire. Jumping a gap over a half an inch with 3 to 5 sparks a second. <br />
   This let me clear the check engine light and I resumed my trip with no other problems.<br />
   My question is what caused the sparking? Could it be caused by the frequency that the PWM puts out in conjunction with the cell acting like a huge capacitor? Do you think that it destroyed the EFIE? Has anyone else had this occur?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I have a 2008 Chevy Avon with a small cell and a PWM. I recently installed an EFIE on my Oxygen sensor. After driving on the road without any problems for over an hour, I stopped at a store. When restarted, I got down the road about 3 miles and the car suddenly wouldn't run. It would idle but wouldn't accelerate. I didn't get a check engine light but I opened the hood and took a look. Everything looked normal so I started it up and took off again only to get less then a mile and it did it again but this time I got a check engine light. The computer went into open loop.<br />
    I opened the hood and loosened the B+ lug on the EFIE and pulled the wire out to shut it down with the car still running. As the wire came out it was sparking to ground like it was a spark plug wire. Jumping a gap over a half an inch with 3 to 5 sparks a second. <br />
   This let me clear the check engine light and I resumed my trip with no other problems.<br />
   My question is what caused the sparking? Could it be caused by the frequency that the PWM puts out in conjunction with the cell acting like a huge capacitor? Do you think that it destroyed the EFIE? Has anyone else had this occur?]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Possible new layout for H2 dry cell]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2451</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Nov 2008 12:18:59 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2451</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Even though I am gong down the structural route put forth by Finallyme some time ago, clearly the dry cell is the most efficient.  I chose to start with the Finally's structure because I just couldn't see how to seperate the gasses and still keep the dry cell small.  Space is a big problem in my van.  As I have run down my path, it is quite possible that the Finallyme design may not put out enough H2 but I am still hopeful.  As a backup I have been mulling over the dry cell problem for a month and I think I might have a break threw. So I thought I'd ask the H2 dry cell experts (all 3 of you. Its lonely out here in H2 territory) what you think.<br />
<br />
Firstly, I apologize for the drawing. I only have paintbrush but I think you should get the idea.  The design in the drawing allows you to have 3 cells with just 2 end caps.  You could extend the principle to have more cells but that would increase the size of the genorator.  At the 3 cell size, you could make 2 gens and series wire them to get that magical 6 cell operation.  For me it is easier to place two smaller gens under the hood than one big one.  Of course, I have never made a dry cell so I don't know how hard it is to make different gasket shapes.  At any rate, let me know what you think. Thanks.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Even though I am gong down the structural route put forth by Finallyme some time ago, clearly the dry cell is the most efficient.  I chose to start with the Finally's structure because I just couldn't see how to seperate the gasses and still keep the dry cell small.  Space is a big problem in my van.  As I have run down my path, it is quite possible that the Finallyme design may not put out enough H2 but I am still hopeful.  As a backup I have been mulling over the dry cell problem for a month and I think I might have a break threw. So I thought I'd ask the H2 dry cell experts (all 3 of you. Its lonely out here in H2 territory) what you think.<br />
<br />
Firstly, I apologize for the drawing. I only have paintbrush but I think you should get the idea.  The design in the drawing allows you to have 3 cells with just 2 end caps.  You could extend the principle to have more cells but that would increase the size of the genorator.  At the 3 cell size, you could make 2 gens and series wire them to get that magical 6 cell operation.  For me it is easier to place two smaller gens under the hood than one big one.  Of course, I have never made a dry cell so I don't know how hard it is to make different gasket shapes.  At any rate, let me know what you think. Thanks.]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Any positive results w/O2 extenders??]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2450</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Nov 2008 11:11:32 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2450</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm new and have installed HHO generator & o2 extender with no MPG gains so far in a '99 Plymouth Voyager. Has anybody ever reported success while using O2 extenders without efie?? Thanks for your answers]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I'm new and have installed HHO generator & o2 extender with no MPG gains so far in a '99 Plymouth Voyager. Has anybody ever reported success while using O2 extenders without efie?? Thanks for your answers]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[discoloration of electrolyte??]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2449</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Nov 2008 09:53:18 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2449</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[what would cause the "water" in the hydrogen generator to turn greenish-yellow??  Unit is still getting power, fluid level is at about 75%, pulling 10 amps, down from 13-14 amps. This is the third system I have installed, and this is the only one changing color.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[what would cause the "water" in the hydrogen generator to turn greenish-yellow??  Unit is still getting power, fluid level is at about 75%, pulling 10 amps, down from 13-14 amps. This is the third system I have installed, and this is the only one changing color.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ox sensor]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2448</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Nov 2008 05:49:25 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2448</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[cant i just install a spacer to pull the sensor out of the exaust a bit to acheive the same result as a electronic device]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[cant i just install a spacer to pull the sensor out of the exaust a bit to acheive the same result as a electronic device]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Jumped from 17MPG to 20MPG in city driving]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2447</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Nov 2008 04:59:18 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2447</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Yep....after 1 year of experimenting I finally reached the stage of measuring my gains.Strictly city driving I`ve managed to jump from 17 to 20.Thats with 1 LPM and 3 cells in series (15 plate own design)on only 10 amps with MAP sensor mod and EFIE.The secret is I believe NOT a huge production on gazzillion amps,rather find the "golden section" between amp drawn and efficiency (production).This gain could be higher on highway miles for sure but I`ll test this when I`ll be having longs trips.<br />
<br />
I`ve started building and selling these on ebay uk.I`m confident that they work great.I`m not giving any links.This is not an advertisement.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Yep....after 1 year of experimenting I finally reached the stage of measuring my gains.Strictly city driving I`ve managed to jump from 17 to 20.Thats with 1 LPM and 3 cells in series (15 plate own design)on only 10 amps with MAP sensor mod and EFIE.The secret is I believe NOT a huge production on gazzillion amps,rather find the "golden section" between amp drawn and efficiency (production).This gain could be higher on highway miles for sure but I`ll test this when I`ll be having longs trips.<br />
<br />
I`ve started building and selling these on ebay uk.I`m confident that they work great.I`m not giving any links.This is not an advertisement.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[hho production seems good, but its not coming through the bubbler]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2446</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Nov 2008 23:37:35 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2446</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[3 cell water4gas setup.<br />
had it all on a table hooked up.<br />
hho production looks pretty good,<br />
but when i ran the hose into the bubbler water,<br />
there were no bubbles.<br />
<br />
i just dont get why it wont come out of the bubbler hose<br />
sorry im just a noob trying to work the little stuff out before installing]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[3 cell water4gas setup.<br />
had it all on a table hooked up.<br />
hho production looks pretty good,<br />
but when i ran the hose into the bubbler water,<br />
there were no bubbles.<br />
<br />
i just dont get why it wont come out of the bubbler hose<br />
sorry im just a noob trying to work the little stuff out before installing]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[HHO Florida Games]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2444</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Nov 2008 16:48:11 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2444</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Received this email this morning from Sid Young who makes one of the finest Dry Cells. Now I can not back this up nor does the video show the cell. I am only passing on what I received. I will dig into the matter and will try to locate Jim Pardo. I would like to know what amps the testing was tested at and whether this was the 6" x 6" cell or 8" x 8" cell and the number of plates involved...<br />
<br />
Greetings <br />
<br />
I just received the following email message relative to the HHO games in Florida:<br />
<br />
"Sid<br />
<br />
I was at the hho games and I got the cell tested here you go. Thanx again it was the highest output at the show!<br />
<br />
Sid Young Dry Cell<br />
<br />
take care<br />
<br />
Jim pardo"<br />
<br />
More to follow.<br />
<br />
Sid Young<br />
27054 Carrie CT.<br />
Mechanicsville MD 20659<br />
240-230-3064]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Received this email this morning from Sid Young who makes one of the finest Dry Cells. Now I can not back this up nor does the video show the cell. I am only passing on what I received. I will dig into the matter and will try to locate Jim Pardo. I would like to know what amps the testing was tested at and whether this was the 6" x 6" cell or 8" x 8" cell and the number of plates involved...<br />
<br />
Greetings <br />
<br />
I just received the following email message relative to the HHO games in Florida:<br />
<br />
"Sid<br />
<br />
I was at the hho games and I got the cell tested here you go. Thanx again it was the highest output at the show!<br />
<br />
Sid Young Dry Cell<br />
<br />
take care<br />
<br />
Jim pardo"<br />
<br />
More to follow.<br />
<br />
Sid Young<br />
27054 Carrie CT.<br />
Mechanicsville MD 20659<br />
240-230-3064]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[heater...]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2443</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Nov 2008 08:05:38 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2443</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone.... I know theres a "winter running" post on here where everyone was discussing what to do about the freezing issues. Ive read all kinds of stuff online and watched videos about mixing alocohol, rv anitfreeze and so on to prevent freezing. There are alot of guys on here that are WAY smarter than me:)...Has anyone come up with some sort of 12 volt heating to keep the cell just above freezing?..Ive searched all over the internet for 12 volt heat tape and so on...so far I cant find anything thats even near what I think would work...any ideas here. Ive heard that alcohol reduces production, can turn into sludge...etc...id rather stay away if possible. I would imagine someone could come up with something that would draw just enough current to keep the cell above freezing and not drain the battery overnight....If anyone has any idea..id love to hear them. I finally just got my cell up and running on my truck and now im scraping ice off the windshield every morning...:(bad time for testing:)...thanks for your time guys...Mike]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hey everyone.... I know theres a "winter running" post on here where everyone was discussing what to do about the freezing issues. Ive read all kinds of stuff online and watched videos about mixing alocohol, rv anitfreeze and so on to prevent freezing. There are alot of guys on here that are WAY smarter than me:)...Has anyone come up with some sort of 12 volt heating to keep the cell just above freezing?..Ive searched all over the internet for 12 volt heat tape and so on...so far I cant find anything thats even near what I think would work...any ideas here. Ive heard that alcohol reduces production, can turn into sludge...etc...id rather stay away if possible. I would imagine someone could come up with something that would draw just enough current to keep the cell above freezing and not drain the battery overnight....If anyone has any idea..id love to hear them. I finally just got my cell up and running on my truck and now im scraping ice off the windshield every morning...:(bad time for testing:)...thanks for your time guys...Mike]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Multiple cells Questions (newbie-ish)]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2442</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Nov 2008 21:47:14 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2442</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[hi,<br />
i know everyone is going to bag on me for having water4gas type cells, but its what i have right now and i want to experiment with this before upgrading to something since i dont have the money right now.<br />
anyways, the question is,<br />
<br />
If i have multiple cells(3), how should they be wired?<br />
series?<br />
or parallel?<br />
<br />
thanks for any imput<br />
<br />
Grant]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[hi,<br />
i know everyone is going to bag on me for having water4gas type cells, but its what i have right now and i want to experiment with this before upgrading to something since i dont have the money right now.<br />
anyways, the question is,<br />
<br />
If i have multiple cells(3), how should they be wired?<br />
series?<br />
or parallel?<br />
<br />
thanks for any imput<br />
<br />
Grant]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[wondering]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2441</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Nov 2008 14:39:18 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2441</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[i was wondering is a series cell, dry cell and tero cell the same thing.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[i was wondering is a series cell, dry cell and tero cell the same thing.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Dry Cell Being Installed (Photos)]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2440</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Nov 2008 14:02:52 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2440</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I swore I would not return to this forum due to an individual who thinks he knows everything, he likes to HIGHJACK threads to turn them into his thread. Is this who we want to be spreading the word of HHO, check out his video?<br />
<br />
VIDEO    ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I swore I would not return to this forum due to an individual who thinks he knows everything, he likes to HIGHJACK threads to turn them into his thread. Is this who we want to be spreading the word of HHO, check out his video?<br />
<br />
VIDEO    ]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Dual EFIE?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2439</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Nov 2008 14:02:35 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2439</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I purchased the duel efie deluxe, and have discovered I only needed a single. I have hooked it up per the instructions and have just taped off the blue and brown wires. So my first question is: is this ok even though I'm being a bit wasteful?<br />
Second when testing the o2 sensor, using the efie with the red probe to black port, and black to vehicle ground I show a negative number like -45 to -50 mv is this normal?<br />
As per the instructions then when I turn the efie off I show the above values on the plus side doe's this sound normal?<br />
The schematic I purchased for the vehicle doe's refer to the terminology of the wiring going to these sensor's, as o2 sensors.  <br />
2007 chevy colorado 2.9 I4 <br />
o2 sensor is four wire, two black, one blue, and one white wire. The white wire is what I've determined is the signal wire, and it turns to beige/white going to the computer. I done a continuity check on this wire at the computer to verify that I had the correct wire, and here connected the white wire going to the computer, and the green wire back to the o2 sensor.<br />
ANy help would be appreciated<br />
Later Don]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I purchased the duel efie deluxe, and have discovered I only needed a single. I have hooked it up per the instructions and have just taped off the blue and brown wires. So my first question is: is this ok even though I'm being a bit wasteful?<br />
Second when testing the o2 sensor, using the efie with the red probe to black port, and black to vehicle ground I show a negative number like -45 to -50 mv is this normal?<br />
As per the instructions then when I turn the efie off I show the above values on the plus side doe's this sound normal?<br />
The schematic I purchased for the vehicle doe's refer to the terminology of the wiring going to these sensor's, as o2 sensors.  <br />
2007 chevy colorado 2.9 I4 <br />
o2 sensor is four wire, two black, one blue, and one white wire. The white wire is what I've determined is the signal wire, and it turns to beige/white going to the computer. I done a continuity check on this wire at the computer to verify that I had the correct wire, and here connected the white wire going to the computer, and the green wire back to the o2 sensor.<br />
ANy help would be appreciated<br />
Later Don]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[questions!]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2438</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Nov 2008 18:55:05 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2438</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[i'm new with making HHO. so i have a lot of questions! what i have been thinking about is taking a stainless steel tube 3 1/2' wall 0.40-0.65 16in. long. and roll stainless sheet 15in. 16g or 18g space of 1/4 between the two tubes then fill the rest up with plats 1/4 apart <br />
<br />
my bigest question is it best to just have + and - plats or have neutral in plats between + and - and how many?<br />
<br />
if you guys coold help that would be sweet.:cool:]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[i'm new with making HHO. so i have a lot of questions! what i have been thinking about is taking a stainless steel tube 3 1/2' wall 0.40-0.65 16in. long. and roll stainless sheet 15in. 16g or 18g space of 1/4 between the two tubes then fill the rest up with plats 1/4 apart <br />
<br />
my bigest question is it best to just have + and - plats or have neutral in plats between + and - and how many?<br />
<br />
if you guys coold help that would be sweet.:cool:]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[why does my amp meter keep blowing a fuse?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2437</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Nov 2008 12:48:38 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2437</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I am trying to hook up a 60 amp amp meter I got from an automotive store to my generator but when I hook neg to neg and pos to pos it just explodes my inline fuse my my gen...  Why is it doing that...?  could I be hooking it up wrong?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I am trying to hook up a 60 amp amp meter I got from an automotive store to my generator but when I hook neg to neg and pos to pos it just explodes my inline fuse my my gen...  Why is it doing that...?  could I be hooking it up wrong?]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Electrolyte NaOH concentrations?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2436</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Nov 2008 12:38:01 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2436</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[If I use 100% Lye for household use, sold as Rooto 1lb at Ace Hardware or 2lb Rhoebic at Lowes... <br />
<br />
And I mix at 1Tbsp/Gallon of water, how do I calculate the percent concentration?<br />
<br />
1 Gallon = 256 Tbp- so I have 1/257= .0039- is it only .39% solution?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[If I use 100% Lye for household use, sold as Rooto 1lb at Ace Hardware or 2lb Rhoebic at Lowes... <br />
<br />
And I mix at 1Tbsp/Gallon of water, how do I calculate the percent concentration?<br />
<br />
1 Gallon = 256 Tbp- so I have 1/257= .0039- is it only .39% solution?]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Generator set up questions]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2435</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Nov 2008 11:05:40 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2435</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[My generator is a 2" ID ss tube with a ss all thread with 1 1/2 ss fender washers with a ss washer between each one. The rod is 12" long with 85 washers on each rod. The spacer washers are 1.5mm thick. This is incased inside a 2" black plastic pipe. Right now I have 3 cells setup and am planing to add 3 more. the electrolight is 2 teaspoons of Lye to a gal. of water and runs cold 16 amps, hot at 19 amps. Wired in series with a PWM. Production now is about 1/2 a liter per minute. <br />
<br />
1. Should the spacer washers be wider?<br />
<br />
2. Would it make any difference weither the pipe is + or - in production? Which would make the most Hydrogen?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[My generator is a 2" ID ss tube with a ss all thread with 1 1/2 ss fender washers with a ss washer between each one. The rod is 12" long with 85 washers on each rod. The spacer washers are 1.5mm thick. This is incased inside a 2" black plastic pipe. Right now I have 3 cells setup and am planing to add 3 more. the electrolight is 2 teaspoons of Lye to a gal. of water and runs cold 16 amps, hot at 19 amps. Wired in series with a PWM. Production now is about 1/2 a liter per minute. <br />
<br />
1. Should the spacer washers be wider?<br />
<br />
2. Would it make any difference weither the pipe is + or - in production? Which would make the most Hydrogen?]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY OF SELECTED ELEMENTS AND ALLOYS]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2434</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Nov 2008 17:35:57 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2434</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[THIS THREAD SHOULD BE SOME HELP TO SOME WHO ARE CONSIDERING WORKING OUT THE MATH IN HHO EFFICIENCY FOR THOSE SO INCLINED.<br />
<br />
THE FIRST MEASUREMENT IS TAKEN DIRECTLY FROM THE ELEMENT CONDUCTIVITY TABLE FROM A CHEMISTRY TEXTBOOK AND IS ".000001 OHMS OF RESISTANCE PER CENTIMETER". <br />
<br />
THE SECOND COLUMN IS USING SILVER (Ag) AS A REFERENCE, SINCE IT IS THE BEST CONDUCTOR AT ROOM TEMPERATURE AND IS READILY AVAILABLE ALTHOUGH EXPENSIVE. SILVER IS, FOR THIS TABLE, 100% AND ALL OTHER ELEMENTS HAVE THEIR VALUES DIVIDED INTO SILVER'S VALUE - MAKING IT A "PERCENT CONDUCTANCE IN RELATION TO SILVER". NOTE HOW IRON REALLY SUCKS COMPARATIVELY, BUT WE ALL KNOW THAT STAINLESS STEEL CONDUCTS RATHER WELL WHICH IS AT LEAST TWO-THIRDS IRON. <br />
<br />
AFTER SOME ONLINE RESEARCHING, I HAVE FOUNS SOME VALUES FOR 5 DIFFERENT GRADES OF STAINLESS STEEL. IT SEEMS THE HIGHER THE Cr CONTENT, THE BETTER THE CONDUCTANCE AND RESISTIVITY TO CORROSION. <br />
<br />
REMEMBER, THESE MEASUREMENTS ARE CALCULATED AT 20 DEGRESS CELSIUS OR 68 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT<br />
<br />
HOPE THIS HELPS!!!!<br />
<br />
SILVER                            0.630                          100 %<br />
COPPER                           0.590                          93.6%<br />
GOLD                              0.452                          71.7%<br />
ALUMINUM                       0.377                          59.8%[/color]<br />
BERYLLIUM                       0.313                          49.7%<br />
CALCIUM                          0.298                          47.3%<br />
MAGNESIUM                     0.226                           35.9% <br />
RHODIUM                         0.211                          33.5%<br />
SODIUM                           0.210                          33.3% <br />
IRIDIUM                           0.197                          31.3%<br />
[/color]<br />
ZINC                               0.166                           26.3%<br />
NICKEL                            0.143                           22.7%<br />
POTASSIUM                      0.139                           22.1%<br />
CADMIUM                         0.138                           21.9%<br />
RUTHENIUM                      0.137                           21.7%<br />
INDIUM                            0.116                           18.4%<br />
OSMIUM                           0.109                           17.3%<br />
PLATINUM                         0.097                           15.4%<br />
PALLADIUM                       0.095                            15.1%<br />
IRON                                0.093                           14.8%[color=#FF0000]<br />
size]<br />
<br />
<br />
NOTE HOW TERRIBLE OF A CONDUCTANCE THESE STAINLESS STEELS HAVE COMPARED TO SILVER AND COPPER. THE DUPLEX (2205) AND UR52N+ STAINLESS STEELS CARRY CURRENT A WHOPPING 2% BETTER THAN 316. <br />
<br />
SOMEONE MENTIONED USING 430 SS FOR ELECTRODES, BUT CONDUCTANCE IS MUCH LOWER WITH THIS MATERIAL. <br />
<br />
WHAT ABOUT TUNGSTEN CARBIDE??????<br />
<br />
THIS MATERIAL, BEING RELATIVELY NEW TO THE SCENE, IS NOT USED EXTENSIVELY IN ELECTRICAL APPLICATIONS OTHER THAN CVD. IT MELTS AT 5200 F AND IS THE HARDEST METAL ALLOY IN EXISTENCE AT THIS POINT. <br />
<br />
AFTER SOME LENGTHY RESEARACH, I HAVE A RANGE OF CONDUCTIVITY VALUES RANGING FROM 0.07 TO 0.12, WHICH TRANSLATES INTO 9.5% T0 19% CONDUCTANCE COMPARED TO SILVER. I DON'T KNOW THE REASON FOR THE RANGE OTHER THAN THE TWO FORMS OF TUNGSTEN CARBIDE, WHICH ARE WC AND W2C.<br />
<br />
MORE TO COME...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[THIS THREAD SHOULD BE SOME HELP TO SOME WHO ARE CONSIDERING WORKING OUT THE MATH IN HHO EFFICIENCY FOR THOSE SO INCLINED.<br />
<br />
THE FIRST MEASUREMENT IS TAKEN DIRECTLY FROM THE ELEMENT CONDUCTIVITY TABLE FROM A CHEMISTRY TEXTBOOK AND IS ".000001 OHMS OF RESISTANCE PER CENTIMETER". <br />
<br />
THE SECOND COLUMN IS USING SILVER (Ag) AS A REFERENCE, SINCE IT IS THE BEST CONDUCTOR AT ROOM TEMPERATURE AND IS READILY AVAILABLE ALTHOUGH EXPENSIVE. SILVER IS, FOR THIS TABLE, 100% AND ALL OTHER ELEMENTS HAVE THEIR VALUES DIVIDED INTO SILVER'S VALUE - MAKING IT A "PERCENT CONDUCTANCE IN RELATION TO SILVER". NOTE HOW IRON REALLY SUCKS COMPARATIVELY, BUT WE ALL KNOW THAT STAINLESS STEEL CONDUCTS RATHER WELL WHICH IS AT LEAST TWO-THIRDS IRON. <br />
<br />
AFTER SOME ONLINE RESEARCHING, I HAVE FOUNS SOME VALUES FOR 5 DIFFERENT GRADES OF STAINLESS STEEL. IT SEEMS THE HIGHER THE Cr CONTENT, THE BETTER THE CONDUCTANCE AND RESISTIVITY TO CORROSION. <br />
<br />
REMEMBER, THESE MEASUREMENTS ARE CALCULATED AT 20 DEGRESS CELSIUS OR 68 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT<br />
<br />
HOPE THIS HELPS!!!!<br />
<br />
SILVER                            0.630                          100 %<br />
COPPER                           0.590                          93.6%<br />
GOLD                              0.452                          71.7%<br />
ALUMINUM                       0.377                          59.8%[/color]<br />
BERYLLIUM                       0.313                          49.7%<br />
CALCIUM                          0.298                          47.3%<br />
MAGNESIUM                     0.226                           35.9% <br />
RHODIUM                         0.211                          33.5%<br />
SODIUM                           0.210                          33.3% <br />
IRIDIUM                           0.197                          31.3%<br />
[/color]<br />
ZINC                               0.166                           26.3%<br />
NICKEL                            0.143                           22.7%<br />
POTASSIUM                      0.139                           22.1%<br />
CADMIUM                         0.138                           21.9%<br />
RUTHENIUM                      0.137                           21.7%<br />
INDIUM                            0.116                           18.4%<br />
OSMIUM                           0.109                           17.3%<br />
PLATINUM                         0.097                           15.4%<br />
PALLADIUM                       0.095                            15.1%<br />
IRON                                0.093                           14.8%[color=#FF0000]<br />
size]<br />
<br />
<br />
NOTE HOW TERRIBLE OF A CONDUCTANCE THESE STAINLESS STEELS HAVE COMPARED TO SILVER AND COPPER. THE DUPLEX (2205) AND UR52N+ STAINLESS STEELS CARRY CURRENT A WHOPPING 2% BETTER THAN 316. <br />
<br />
SOMEONE MENTIONED USING 430 SS FOR ELECTRODES, BUT CONDUCTANCE IS MUCH LOWER WITH THIS MATERIAL. <br />
<br />
WHAT ABOUT TUNGSTEN CARBIDE??????<br />
<br />
THIS MATERIAL, BEING RELATIVELY NEW TO THE SCENE, IS NOT USED EXTENSIVELY IN ELECTRICAL APPLICATIONS OTHER THAN CVD. IT MELTS AT 5200 F AND IS THE HARDEST METAL ALLOY IN EXISTENCE AT THIS POINT. <br />
<br />
AFTER SOME LENGTHY RESEARACH, I HAVE A RANGE OF CONDUCTIVITY VALUES RANGING FROM 0.07 TO 0.12, WHICH TRANSLATES INTO 9.5% T0 19% CONDUCTANCE COMPARED TO SILVER. I DON'T KNOW THE REASON FOR THE RANGE OTHER THAN THE TWO FORMS OF TUNGSTEN CARBIDE, WHICH ARE WC AND W2C.<br />
<br />
MORE TO COME...]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Dual EFIE Capacitor values]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2433</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Nov 2008 16:56:46 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=2433</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[being brand new in the world of electronics. I'm have an extremely hard time keeping the ball moving with this project. I have Water4Gas and Eagle research-EFIE manual. Ozzie calls for a subsution of the Eagle EFIE capacitors for variable capacitors. What range to I need to get? Any insight would be greatly appreaciated. <br />
<br />
Sincerely,<br />
<br />
Mr. Adam Rosen]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[being brand new in the world of electronics. I'm have an extremely hard time keeping the ball moving with this project. I have Water4Gas and Eagle research-EFIE manual. Ozzie calls for a subsution of the Eagle EFIE capacitors for variable capacitors. What range to I need to get? Any insight would be greatly appreaciated. <br />
<br />
Sincerely,<br />
<br />
Mr. Adam Rosen]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
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