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2005 Vibe/Matrix/Corolla sensor Modifications
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ncmountainmadness Offline
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Post: #1
2005 Vibe/Matrix/Corolla sensor Modifications
This thread is created solely to discuss the efforts of Sensor modifications on the Toyota 1.8l engine common to both the Toyota Matrix, Pontiac Vibe, and Toyota Corolla.

It has been found that though, MANY 4 cyl Toyota engines (1.8L & 2.4L) and wiring harness's share many similarities, there ARE differences.

What becomes very confusing to many that choose to persue this venture, (Sensor modification due to the effects of combustion enhancement) is the fact that there is so much data out there. from this Data, endless questions and ideas often confuse even more the initial intent of the thread. The intent here is to keep this thread specifically intent for the efforts on board 2005 and up 1.8L toyota engines. Links to other threads are greatly appreciated, as I myself participate in many. I myself, will also do my best not to clutter other threads unless its is to link info that we have posted here. I hope those that participate in this thread will appreciate this.

Much of what was learned so far has come from the following thread.

Toyota AFR update info requested http://www.fuel-saver.org/showthread.php?tid=978

Mike

2005 Pontiac Vibe
1.8L corolla engine engine code 1ZZ-GE

Present goal = 100% control of sensor chain on EFI
Simple Combustion enhancements at present = Fuel heat exchanger, water vapor vacuum injection
once I can prove 100% control of sensors, then back to HHO
07-24-2008 06:49 AM
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ncmountainmadness Offline
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Post: #2
RE: 2005 Vibe/Matrix/Corolla sensor Modifications
Initial start/roots to this thread was found here

http://www.fuel-saver.org/showthread.php?tid=1039

It has since been proven that the vehicles in question, 2005 Vibes/Matrix do not use the older narrow band 02 sensor's for pre catalyst AF ratio monitoring. In fact, they use the more modern AFR sensor. Since so far it has been proven that old style EFIE's have no effect on the newer AFR's, this new thread was started under the topic of sensor handlers.

Keep in mind that so far it is beleived that the POST CAT sensors, still are of the old narrow band 02 design. However, at present it is believed by all, including the manufacturers of the older EFIE circuits,(Eagle Research/G Wiseman) that ONLY pre cat sensors need modification. There are many in the HHO community that have also proven this fact. At the moment, the efforts of us with 2005 Vibes have made no effort at dealing with the Post cat sensor. We may find later that we need to, but for now no efforts have gone there.

Mike

2005 Pontiac Vibe
1.8L corolla engine engine code 1ZZ-GE

Present goal = 100% control of sensor chain on EFI
Simple Combustion enhancements at present = Fuel heat exchanger, water vapor vacuum injection
once I can prove 100% control of sensors, then back to HHO
07-24-2008 07:00 AM
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EdGe7 Offline
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Post: #3
RE: 2005 Vibe/Matrix/Corolla sensor Modifications
ncmountainmadness Wrote:Initial start/roots to this thread was found here

http://www.fuel-saver.org/showthread.php?tid=1039

It has since been proven that the vehicles in question, 2005 Vibes/Matrix do not use the older narrow band 02 sensor's for pre catalyst AF ratio monitoring. In fact, they use the more modern AFR sensor.

Hey Mike

Don't forget about me... my 2005 Corolla XRS has a pre-cat narrow band sensor.

What is your engine code? Is it a 2ZZ-GE or a 1ZZ-GE?

- E.J.

"The difference between intelligence and stupidity is that intelligence has its limits."
07-24-2008 07:07 AM
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ncmountainmadness Offline
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Post: #4
RE: 2005 Vibe/Matrix/Corolla sensor Modifications
EJ

sorry about that, I just naturally assumed the XRS and similar version of Matrix to just naturally be included as they are just mildly upgraded 1.8's.

Not really sure on my engine code, but belive it to be 1ZZ-GE.

Not sure as a new hood was installed and they did not redo the stickers. But mine is a base model Vibe. According to Toyota/Pontiac and Aftermarket sources, the base 1.8 is the 1ZZ, the XRS or GT is a 2ZZ. Only difference being 1cc in cylinder bore displacement.

Base model being 1794cc, and the XRS or GT being 1795cc.

Mike

2005 Pontiac Vibe
1.8L corolla engine engine code 1ZZ-GE

Present goal = 100% control of sensor chain on EFI
Simple Combustion enhancements at present = Fuel heat exchanger, water vapor vacuum injection
once I can prove 100% control of sensors, then back to HHO
07-24-2008 08:31 AM
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ncmountainmadness Offline
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RE: 2005 Vibe/Matrix/Corolla sensor Modifications
The following are links to TOYOTA OEM manuals that have been found to be helpful in tracing down sensor information and wiring harness connection points. In my following posts, I will attempt to isolate the information proven to date, sensor by sensor. However, I encourage those that follow to not just follow the leads given here but to also study the information in the links and learn and understand the system. Also if any discrepancy or difference of opinion is noted, please bring it fwd. But, please have proven your fact with a thorough diagnostic approach.

Note: these sources are based on the 2003 model, or possibly older. Though most of the information is the same, it is up to the user to prove or disprove actuality in his/her individual car. There are also links on the matrix forum for manuals upward of 2007 model year, but so far I have been unable to access them. Maybe someone else can access them, and from there provide accurate links or PDF conversions for the pertinent information. Such info primarily being the ECM pinouts and sensor info, namely at the moment anything AFR based. Some of these links are also Toyota generic and might be found useful on other Toyota models.


http://matrixowners.com/
There are links here to 2004-2007 manuals, BUT these are the ones I have not been able to access. Link are top center of log on screen, bright bold red print.

http://madstyle1972.com/Repair/

This link is courtesy of COLCHIRO, here on the boards. Though not just specific to the 1.8L TOY engine, still very valuable information. That does include 1.8L information.

http://www.autoshop101.com/

Here is another link that is NON Toyota based, However does make specific reference to TOY’s AFR sensors.

http://www.import-car.com/iced3.htm

Mike

2005 Pontiac Vibe
1.8L corolla engine engine code 1ZZ-GE

Present goal = 100% control of sensor chain on EFI
Simple Combustion enhancements at present = Fuel heat exchanger, water vapor vacuum injection
once I can prove 100% control of sensors, then back to HHO
07-24-2008 08:37 AM
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ncmountainmadness Offline
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RE: 2005 Vibe/Matrix/Corolla sensor Modifications
Based on present data available this attachment below is the way the ECM connectors appear when being viewed head on, under the glove box.

ECM view, plug location, pin counts per plug, and plug size have all been confirmed as Accurate.

The pinouts are NOT 100% in agreement with the Pinout charts available on the links. Though all of the colors seem to be correct, pin location and color are not. This could be where the 2003 and 2005 manuals differ.

These colors and pin locations have been proven by myself, on MY VIBE. I can only assume that all 2005 Vibe’s will be the same. Plugs were disconnected at both all sensors as well as at the ECM. Each individual wire was from there continuity checked from one end to the other.

I do understand that some may choose to actually do the work at the sensor itself. I have found it much easier to do all the work, inside the car, at the ECM plugs.

I have seen many wires that start out as one color at the sensor, and are totally different at the ECM plug. This is why I encourage individual testing of wires to prove ultimate destination on both ends. Assume nothing and do not use this info as 100% fact, instead as a guideline to start. IN time we may prove or disprove that all 2005 vibes are the same. But for now, we are where we are.

REKLINE = RICK

As at present you and I are the only two working on this same car, please go behind me and confirm all that I write. You and I have not discussed everything, mainly just the EFIE issue. IF you find anything that you did different than the way I did it, then please post a reply with your method
.


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Mike

2005 Pontiac Vibe
1.8L corolla engine engine code 1ZZ-GE

Present goal = 100% control of sensor chain on EFI
Simple Combustion enhancements at present = Fuel heat exchanger, water vapor vacuum injection
once I can prove 100% control of sensors, then back to HHO
07-24-2008 12:37 PM
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rekline Offline
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Post: #7
RE: 2005 Vibe/Matrix/Corolla sensor Modifications
Mike, I decided to do some step/step volts testing on afr sensor. This is what i've got. engine hot...
NO hho,No maf signal tweeking=blk.wire that o2 plugs into to pcm = 2.427v to 2.428 Wht.wire=2.059v to 2.o61
No hho, maf adjuster on my preset adjustment,blk.wire =2.429v to 2.430 wht.wire=2.073 to 2.075
HHo ON, maf ON, blk.=2.424 to 2.426 wht.=2.069 to 2.071
HHo ON, maf ON, o2 adjuster from e-bay supposed to work on vibe ,turned on in parralel w/blk.o2 wire ,set at max pot setting of 1+vdc = 2.425 to 2.426....same setup to wht. wire=2.065.
Not getting anything but very minut voltage changes. Big puddle of water under exhaust pipe after 5 min. of HHO on, none before. rick
07-24-2008 03:34 PM
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rekline Offline
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Post: #8
RE: 2005 Vibe/Matrix/Corolla sensor Modifications
Mike, Now i've found the check engine light was on during all of the previously recorded volt. readings, do you know if this would have affected the reading taken from the afr sensor? I don't have a scan guage. The MAF adjuster pot that was installed a week ago seems to work well, it took a couple days of me driving the car before i gave it back to my wife. When first installed i adjusted as low as possible just before stall, but after driving several miles then trying to restart,the engine wouldn,t start at that setting. Have since marked a green zone & red zone on pot,wife has driven a week with MAF on, HHO on w/ engine start, o2 adjuster on all the time, she has seen no noticeable problems w/ starting or driving perf. Can't help w/ any details of MAF construction. Bought a dual unit off e-bay MAF/o2, cut green wire at MAF & put in series w/ pot. ALL the way one way will kill the engine all the way the other seems to be stock. As far as POTS go all i can tell you about it is its not a cooking pot, wish i were smarter on this end of electronics...But hey i can tell you how to check the SCR's in a 150hp D.C. drive unit or wire a 200amp service according to N.E.C. code if you every need help on that.
I would like to try taking the blk. wire {my high volts signal}from afr sensor out of circuit & using the correct size pot setup to give me a very fine adjustment in the 2 to 3 volt range, & leave the wht. wire {which is my low volts signal} connected as is. There is the span between the low & high to be concidered, pcm may be looking at that also. Can you offer specifics on the pot idea? size pot to start with ,resistor needed to lower 12vdc input volts to 2 to 3 volt adjustment range. I know you've recommended building the unit on mikes tuning link, but would like to try this to keep the nicely installed waterproof maf/o2 control box mounted on firewall in tack & just replace the original 0-1vdc adjustment pot.
rick
07-25-2008 01:55 AM
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ncmountainmadness Offline
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Post: #9
RE: 2005 Vibe/Matrix/Corolla sensor Modifications
[attachment=369]
rekline Wrote:Mike, Now i've found the check engine light was on during all of the previously recorded volt. readings, do you know if this would have affected the reading taken from the afr sensor?

From all my readings as well as personal testing expereince, once a MIL (check engine light) comes on, the PCM/ECM goes into what is known as open loop, some might tend to call that OFF. But basically its a default mode. Said default mode is usually on the rich side. As the normal readings for an AFR with no enhancements are 3.0 and 3.3, A lower reading like what you got would show a true rich condition. So yes to answer your question, I would say that to take VOM readings when the light is on, would no be accurate data. Now, what I would like to do myself, is to force my car to go into default and see if the base readings are similar(rich side) to what you got. Curious, did you also have your CTS and IAT sensors off as well? I would take entire car to normal prior to any such readings

I don't have a scan guage.

Well, I've only had mine a few months, and can clearly say it is the most valueable tool one can have for all of this. Alot of what we are attemtping is near impossible without one. I know, it costs money, and if one already has a code reader, then buying another similar device is questionable. But the SG just does so much more. I had to ask myself, just how serious am I about this topic of better fuel economy. As Ive been at th is for about 10 years, it was just a tool I saw I needed to have.

The MAF adjuster pot that was installed a week ago seems to work well, it took a couple days of me driving the car before i gave it back to my wife. When first installed i adjusted as low as possible just before stall, but after driving several miles then trying to restart,the engine wouldn,t start at that setting.

I noticed similar, As well as the fact that if I set it that tight, it would near always cause the MIL to illuminate. This is one spot where a SG will show you your results based on engine LOD, and give you the aility to fine tune it much closer for combined like performance and still stay in that economy mode. I have also noticed that if set too tight there would be an engine start problem. What I did was at the same time as adjuting I had an ANALOG multi meter placed between the green signal wire out and the BLU/WHT ground wire. Normal Idle has the MAF putting out about 1.2 VDC. As more resistance is applied there came that point where the voltage will just start to drop (engine stall) from there I backed it up about 1/2 pot turn. Kep in mind we dont want to go too lean.

While were on the topic of MAF. We ARE in agreement that we both have the circuit applied in series on the GREEN signal wire? And the circuit is similar or identical to the one COLCHIRO has posted on the AFR thread numerous times? if not please explain the approach you are using.

   

Mine I will attach below or attempt to place within body of this post. NOTICE: I have altered the circuit by not including the 33k to ground. Why that is being done I do not have a clue.The outside leads of a POT/Variable resistor are a source by which total resistant of said Pot could be obtained. The tuneability or variable part of a pot is determined by taking any outer lead and the center. For those that may not know and follow to ask the question. WHICH OUTER LEAD?…the answer is it makes no difference. It all depends on whether you want your adjustment to go clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the variable part. Me personally, I always set mine up so that Clockwise makes the resistance higher. I test each on the bench prior with a multimeter, mark the outer lead that give me this and then just go from there. But its all personal preference.




Have since marked a green zone & red zone on pot,wife has driven a week with MAF on, HHO on w/ engine start, o2 adjuster on all the time, she has seen no noticeable problems w/ starting or driving perf. Can't help w/ any details of MAF construction. Bought a dual unit off e-bay MAF/o2, cut green wire at MAF & put in series w/ pot. ALL the way one way will kill the engine all the way the other seems to be stock. As far as POTS go all i can tell you about it is its not a cooking pot, wish i were smarter on this end of electronics...But hey i can tell you how to check the SCR's in a 150hp D.C. drive unit or wire a 200amp service according to N.E.C. code if you every need help on that.
I would like to try taking the blk. wire {my high volts signal}from afr sensor out of circuit & using the correct size pot setup to give me a very fine adjustment in the 2 to 3 volt range, & leave the wht. wire {which is my low volts signal} connected as is. There is the span between the low & high to be concidered, pcm may be looking at that also. Can you offer specifics on the pot idea? size pot to start with ,resistor needed to lower 12vdc input volts to 2 to 3 volt adjustment range. I know you've recommended building the unit on mikes tuning link, but would like to try this to keep the nicely installed waterproof maf/o2 control box mounted on firewall in tack & just replace the original 0-1vdc
adjustment pot.

The easiest approach at the moment I could come up with is a very simple Voltage regulator circuit, and the one MPG posted is about as simple as they get. Like you I don’t like going back and redoing things, so to start with I would demo it on a bread board and see if it works.That is what I would do, and probably will soon if no one else does.
Now it may be that we also have to build another one for the low (shield) side, I don’t know. But to srat with I plan to do the high side.

What I would like to do prior is to take some actual VDC and ADC (amperage) readings on the black line during, normal, lean and rich conditions…..Normal we all know how to do, Lean you could do with your HHO, but only if the check engine light is off (closed loop) like I mentioned above, Rich could be simulated by putting some propane (not a lit torch just the gas) in the intake near the air filter. IF all we get is a Voltage variance then it is very possible that a Voltage reg circuit might work. I have read so much on how these AFR’s are supposed to react, some of it is getting confusing. Instead it is time to prove or disprove exactly how the Toyota AFR’s react. I say Toyota as Ive seen on text specifically stating that in TOY afr’s only voltage changes and that current does not. IN another article I’ve read that it’s the current that changes and the voltage does not. Its TIME to prove for ourselves, what they do with good diagnostic skills.

PS..after today I wont be back online until Monday night.


rick

Mike

2005 Pontiac Vibe
1.8L corolla engine engine code 1ZZ-GE

Present goal = 100% control of sensor chain on EFI
Simple Combustion enhancements at present = Fuel heat exchanger, water vapor vacuum injection
once I can prove 100% control of sensors, then back to HHO
07-25-2008 09:48 AM
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ncmountainmadness Offline
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Post: #10
RE: 2005 Vibe/Matrix/Corolla sensor Modifications
The following are the means by which I successfully modified MY Coolant temperature sensor and Intake air temperature sensor. The approach is Exactly as dictated by MPG Mike in his Tuning For Mileage article.

Drawings attached

5K ohm variable resistors, in Parallel across each sensor worked just fine.

Coolant temperature can be altered as high as about 280, however as stated by MPG, its highly unlikely you will be able to achiever more than a 10 deg offset. I have found that at 204 degF the cooling fan kicks on. Normal 1.8L running temps are in the 185-193 range, with 185f being the thermostat. So far, I am running with a 9 degree off set, and only maybe while in heavy traffic on a hot day does the fan come on. NO check engine light come on at all until about 220, which you don’t want to be anyway due to the fan concern.

   

On the Intake air temperature sensor, results are similar. Keep in mind as MPG stated that IAT altering also effects timing. However, even at extreme settings I have seen at best maybe a 2-4 degree retard. You can achieve upwards of about 254 def f before you cause the check engine light to go off. At present I am conducting my testings in the 140-150 deg range. I’ve seen two different write-ups by MPG, one says to run it as high as you possibly can and still maintain proper timing. The other states to not take it much higher than the 130-150f range. I am at the moment a bit confused about that part based on the different wordings, so doing my own thing based on timing.

   

The elusive AFR sensor

To date, Late model Toyota anyway, the writings of MPG will not work. Of course his recommendation is to use no more than 20 ohms. No one that I know of has tried running much higher ohms and see what happens.

There is also still MUCH confusion as to just exactly how the AFR’s work. Some article’say it is a current draw approach. Others say that current stays constant and Voltage on the main signal line varies. Here is what we do know to be fact. Still many diagnostic test to be done, and many in other threads are also trying things.

Once again, TOYOTA 1.8L testing.

Sensors have 4 wires. 2 Black, 1 White, 1 Blue

These colors change immediately after the 4 pin grey multi connector that is attached to the engine about 1.5’ above the sensor itself. The two heater wires change to pink and white.( I believe I am correct on the white, heater circuit is of no concern on this topic so I am not to definate on that) The two sensor wires however come out of that grey connector as Black. Soon thereafter when entering the harness become a shielded coax of sorts. When at the ECM the Pre cat AFR main signal wire terminates at pin 23 of plug #4. Shield is wrapped in grey electrical tape (very easy to see) to protect it, and terminates close by on another pin.

Under normal operating conditions. (NO combustions enhancements or sensor mods) the following voltage readings can be taken. And such that its taken either by back-probing the 4 pin grey connector or at the PCM/ECM pins. The main signal wire is commonly found to have 3.3 VDC, the shield is found to have 3.0.

Further testing will hopefully soon tell us more. A lot of the diagnostic plans have been discussed in prior replies.

Mike

2005 Pontiac Vibe
1.8L corolla engine engine code 1ZZ-GE

Present goal = 100% control of sensor chain on EFI
Simple Combustion enhancements at present = Fuel heat exchanger, water vapor vacuum injection
once I can prove 100% control of sensors, then back to HHO
07-25-2008 02:24 PM
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