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3-5 lpm 17 amps - Generator
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CraigBMM Offline
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Post: #1
3-5 lpm 17 amps - Generator
I like how this guys kept it simple , might be installing one of these in my trunk corner Wink


3 to 5 LPM booster

http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x171/...s/booster/


Those are ss electric
blanking plates (kinda like switch plates but without the hole for the
switch), Lowes $1.63. The 1/4" plastic threaded rod is from graingers
$2.50 and 1/4" x 1.5mm nylon washers $6.00/100. The straps are stove
pipe clamps $1.79 Menards. SS nuts (4) and bolts (2). Also get
sodium hydroxide which is red devil drain cleaner $4.00. 1 tsp per
gallon of distilled water to start. You will want a plastic box to
put it in.
The electrical part is pretty straight forward. I spliced into a
switched 12v wire to the window wipers, then I put in a switch by the
driver so I could turn the booster on/off when I wanted. That wire
then went to the engine compartment (run 2 or 3 wires while you are
there, they may come in handy later) to a relay (a relay is an
electrical switch used so that you don't have to have large wires
running very far). The relay has 4 connections (two for the small
wire and 2 for the large wire. 1 small wire has 12v, 1small wire goes
to ground. 1 large wire has 12v coming from the battery, the other
large wire goes to the booster. The large wire coming from the
battery first goes to an ammeter (not necessary but nice to have) then
to an ordinary house circuit breaker 30amp then to the relay. I use 4
gauge wire (overkill). You will need lugs for that wire to make
connections.

the booster: here is the cute part of a series booster. Not all the
plates are connected with wires. The water carries the current to
most of the plates so that you don't have to. So the first plate is
connected to the negative, the next 5 or 6 plates are not connected to
anything, the next plate is connected to the positive. The next 5 or
6 plates are not connected to anything, and the next plate is
connected to negative. You just continue like that.
I say 5 or 6 neutrals because you have to make that call. 5 will give
more liters per minute but will have heat issues. 6 will not heat up
but will not be as productive. Here is how I put together a booster
that put out 3 to 5 lpm at 17 amps.
P=positive M=negative N=neutral, no connection
PnnnnnMnnnnnnPnnnnnnMnnnnnnPnnnnnnMnnnnnP
notice the 4 center stacks had 6 neutrals, the 2 outer stacks had 5
neutrals. The outer stacks created some heat but not too much.
Overall is was a good booster. Never had a problem.
It does not make any difference which (p or m) you start out with.
It is normal for me to add a M plate and nut with ss washers in the
center so that I could turn the rest of the plates facing the opposite direction. In that way the straps were all bent in the same manner

The build: cut two plastic rods a little longer than what you want.
Put a ss nut on one end. On one rod put a strap (the pipe strap, you
must drill a 1/4" hole on both ends, and measuring is a little tough.
Drill through the strap into a piece of wood or the bit will grab the
strap and WILL cut you. hmmmm, how do I know that??) Then slide on a
ss plate (you will have to drill out the hole to 1/4" and grind off
the remaining lip), then 2 nylon washers on each rod,,this gives a 3
mm space, then put on the next plate and then 2 more washers per rod.
Keep going until you get to the plate that needs an electrical
connection. You just put on a strap before you put on the plate, but
the strap is on the other rod, so that you end up with all positive on
one side and all negative on the other side (see pic). Keep going
until you are done. I then seal all the plates (except the top of
course) with 3M window weld (napa $13). You must not have any water
leaks (easy to say, tough to do the first time) Let it dry 2 days.
Put it in your box (put the bolts through the straps and through a
1/4" hole in your box sealed with plumbers goop (Lowes $4). Washer
and nut the bolt tight, put on your electric wire from the relay to
the positive side and run a wire to ground on the other side. Fill
with solution and turn it on. It will take 2 weeks for the booster to
get up to it's potential and you will need to refill with water once a
week,,,,but you will piddle with it daily so it's not a problem.
After 4 weeks your booster will become just a tool that you use and
life will settle down again.

I use 3/8 nylon tubing and fittings Lowes $1.50. Put a 90 degree
angle fitting threaded into the box sealed with goop and barbed on the
other end. Tubing goes to a bubbler. I use a 1" ID clear tubing
about 8" long with bushing reducers 1" x 1/2" shoved into the ends
Lowes $.79. Nylon barbed to threaded fittings screw into the
bushings. Tubing leaves the bubbler and goes to a fitting that is put
into the rubber hose that is between the maf (mass air flow) sensor
and the throttle body. We do not put it in after the butterfly in the
throttle body because the vacuum there would take some of the HHO to
the brake booster. Accumulations of HHO in the brake booster will
eventually go bang.
This bubbler is extremely important. This is the only protection that
will always work. There has not been a better method found.
The bubbler is filled with plain water. HHO will come through the
tubing and bubble through the water in the bubbler which cleans off
the very small amount of NaOH which surrounds the HHO. Without the
bubbler that NaOH would get into the metal in your engine and WILL
attack any aluminum. If a backfire occurs the water will stop the
flame from getting back to your box.
That's about it. I welcome questions to clarify any part of this
quickly written outline.

Pics:

http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x171/...s/booster/

other booster pics:

http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x171/...urboxtest/

http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x171/...teardown1/

In the 99 plate booster the straps go through the plastic. I heated
a scrap piece of strap held with vise grips to melt the hole.

In the newer version of the 42 plate box, I put the staps on top in the gas
area. It is more dangerous there, so the connections MUST be well done. But
it makes the build much easier. I used 1/4" plexiglass. Bolted the end plates
on. Mopped on the window weld and smashed(technical term) the sides and bottom
on. Glued the plastic with plumbers goop. It works.


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07-29-2008 02:01 PM
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qsiguy Offline
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Post: #2
RE: 3-5 lpm 17 amps - Generator
Nice! Who's is this? Is this just one you came across or do you know the guy?

[Image: LogoSM.jpg]
http://www.mpgsolutions.org
Authorized Scangauge II dealer
07-30-2008 10:54 PM
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umim Offline
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Post: #3
RE: 3-5 lpm 17 amps - Generator
Nice idea. Only one think....I believe plexiglas will melt under the hood of a car.
07-31-2008 10:17 AM
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CraigBMM Offline
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Post: #4
RE: 3-5 lpm 17 amps - Generator
umim Wrote:Nice idea. Only one think....I believe plexiglas will melt under the hood of a car.

hmm depends where under the car you put it . my car doesnt get all the hot under the hood where i have my gens now , my gens run cool so .. on this one i'm building i'm using a plastic tupperware box so it better stay cool ;o
(This post was last modified: 07-31-2008 11:08 AM by CraigBMM.)
07-31-2008 11:07 AM
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CraigBMM Offline
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Post: #5
RE: 3-5 lpm 17 amps - Generator
qsiguy Wrote:Nice! Who's is this? Is this just one you came across or do you know the guy?

yup just came across it . very efficient design . i love it . killer output for the amps.
i'm building the 41 plate design now
(This post was last modified: 07-31-2008 11:12 AM by CraigBMM.)
07-31-2008 11:09 AM
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lowrider3121 Offline
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Post: #6
RE: 3-5 lpm 17 amps - Generator
The small 41 plate unit puts out 3-5 lpms?
(This post was last modified: 08-01-2008 11:21 AM by lowrider3121.)
08-01-2008 11:09 AM
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HydrogenConceptsUnlimited Offline
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Post: #7
RE: 3-5 lpm 17 amps - Generator
I'm in California; we don't have Menards. I'm trying to find somewhere else for the SS stove pipe clamps. What width are they? Is it pretty standard that all hose clamps are SS? I'm thinking so.
08-05-2008 09:58 AM
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Roland Jacques Offline
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Post: #8
RE: 3-5 lpm 17 amps - Generator
12 volts 17 amps 3 LPM = 14.7 MMW ( i dont think this is possable )
12 volts 17 amps 5 LPM = 25.5 MMW
I think your numbers are not possable with SS and this config.
08-05-2008 03:27 PM
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rudagray Offline
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Post: #9
RE: 3-5 lpm 17 amps - Generator
Looking at pics I would expect that the hose clamps need to be insulated? Wrapped?

Also with the 5 neutrals at the ends getting hot I think that is the path of least resistance and where it is higher voltage across, I think if all are 5 or all were 6 that would be less of an issue and overall run cooler IMHO.
(This post was last modified: 08-14-2008 08:41 AM by rudagray.)
08-14-2008 08:27 AM
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rudagray Offline
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RE: 3-5 lpm 17 amps - Generator
HydrogenConceptsUnlimited Wrote:I'm in California; we don't have Menards. I'm trying to find somewhere else for the SS stove pipe clamps. What width are they? Is it pretty standard that all hose clamps are SS? I'm thinking so.

Not all are SS, they are also Zinc Plated or Galvanized.

Looking up Hose clamps that are SS at Grainger it lists...
301 Stainless Steel, Housing Material 201 Stainless Steel, Screw Material Zinc Plated Steel, Band Width 1/2 In for the one I copied.

So not sure those can go or will survive long term in electrolyte under water.
(This post was last modified: 08-14-2008 09:26 AM by rudagray.)
08-14-2008 09:25 AM
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