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Anyone else's fuse holder on HHO positive fry???
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RDKamikaze Offline
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Post: #1
Anyone else's fuse holder on HHO positive fry???
Ok, so here's a problem I' getting. Lately, my fuses have not been burning out like they should, but I still replace them often. Why? Well my fuse holder is REALLY hot (on the + line to HHO) and it just flat out MELTS the plastic part of the fuse! I have done it to make sure no plastic melts together and I have to get a new fuse holder, but ow I think I do. The holder I have has a little "short out" light on it that lets me know if the fuse blows. Well since a few days ago (changed to a new gen) my fuse holder has the light on, no power running to gen, but the fuses is just fine! No blown fuse, no melted plastic on fuse, no nothing. The terminals on the holder have melted plastic from the holder's body all over them now, but it should still work for a connection.

Is anyone else having this problem with their fuse holders? If so, what do I do to stop the overheating and melting of parts? The fuse holder is rated at 30A and I use 15A fusees, so shouldn't it be just fine? I dunno, it's stumping me and I need to head over to Radio Shak to buy another one. $5 later, yay...

My Car:
2006 Toyota Solara 2.4L 4cyl.
-Aftermarket (JPP) header
-DNX exhaust
-Injen Short-Ram Intake (SRI)

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10-30-2008 03:59 PM
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pimpa Offline
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Post: #2
RE: Anyone else's fuse holder on HHO positive fry???
there is a loose or corroded connection somewhere. clean, bend the spring or whatever holds the fuse. or even better, buy a new one.
10-30-2008 04:23 PM
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hydrotinkerer Offline
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Post: #3
RE: Anyone else's fuse holder on HHO positive fry???
RDKamikaze Wrote:Ok, so here's a problem I' getting. Lately, my fuses have not been burning out like they should, but I still replace them often. Why? Well my fuse holder is REALLY hot (on the + line to HHO) and it just flat out MELTS the plastic part of the fuse! I have done it to make sure no plastic melts together and I have to get a new fuse holder, but ow I think I do. The holder I have has a little "short out" light on it that lets me know if the fuse blows. Well since a few days ago (changed to a new gen) my fuse holder has the light on, no power running to gen, but the fuses is just fine! No blown fuse, no melted plastic on fuse, no nothing. The terminals on the holder have melted plastic from the holder's body all over them now, but it should still work for a connection.

Is anyone else having this problem with their fuse holders? If so, what do I do to stop the overheating and melting of parts? The fuse holder is rated at 30A and I use 15A fusees, so shouldn't it be just fine? I dunno, it's stumping me and I need to head over to Radio Shak to buy another one. $5 later, yay...

RD long time no see, Have not heard from you in awhile.
Most fuse holders have an amp rating based on a certain duty cycle.
I would suggest getting a Maxi fuse holder. Its bigger and can dissipate heat better. An auto parts place should have one.
10-30-2008 04:25 PM
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daddymikey1975 Offline
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Post: #4
RE: Anyone else's fuse holder on HHO positive fry???
or stop by your local best buy or auto stereo shop. they'll definitely have what you need. Maxi is the way to go for sure.
10-31-2008 03:29 AM
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gtkco Offline
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Post: #5
RE: Anyone else's fuse holder on HHO positive fry???
Hi RDK nice to hear from you. I guess school is keeping you busy! I went to the Napa auto store and got a 25 amp circut breaker plus its holder. So far in the lab it seems happy. BTW guys, why don't people use the auto designed breakers rather than fuses? I would think replacing fuses would be a pain. Are fuses somehow safer?
(This post was last modified: 10-31-2008 05:50 AM by gtkco.)
10-31-2008 05:49 AM
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Thurman Offline
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Post: #6
RE: Anyone else's fuse holder on HHO positive fry???
It sure sounds like you fuse holder is not rated for 12V DC automotive use. In my opinion: Radio Shack does not sell electrical items for auto use outside of maybe radio and stereo systems. I agree with the others, and particularly about checking/cleaning connections. Go to an auto parts store, or specialty auto stereo shop and get a really good fuse holder that won't do a "China Syndrome" when the temps get hot. Note here: have you done a good check while your vehicle and your HHO unit were both operating to get a good amperage reading on the HHO setup? If you are using a "slow blow" fuse the fuse holder could get really hot before the fuse would blow also. It's the little things that drive us nuts on these projects. Thanks, David
10-31-2008 05:52 AM
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RDKamikaze Offline
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RE: Anyone else's fuse holder on HHO positive fry???
Wow guys, thanks for the warm welcoming back to the HHO life! It really helps to hear words of encouragement when you jump back on a forum for help, instead of harshness in your "alternative fuel myth" when all you ask for is why is such and such light on or how to change this or that (referring back to SG for those of you who know Tongue ). I haven't been busy with school as I'm not taking it this semester, but yet trips there quite often because of performances that my friends are in and stuff like that. There really isn't an reason for me to be inactive right now other than job hunting really blows right now. I promise I'll try to stay a little more active as everybody needs me (and I need you!).

Ok, back on topic! Well I'm still confused on what you guys think I should get, as the Maxi fuse holder doesn't look any different than my Radio Shak one. It just seems to be rated higher for some random reason. And also, I do like the idea of an auto circuit breaker, but the downside is you can't change them out like fuses (ex. you want to go from 20A to 15A). And my retardedness with them is silly. How do the automotive ones work? Do you push a button to reset, flip a switch, what?? And when do you know when you have to reset it?

Thanks for the ideas so far, I'll try to take some pics today before work to show you all what I'm talking about. Keep the ideas (and warm welcomes Big Grin ) coming!

My Car:
2006 Toyota Solara 2.4L 4cyl.
-Aftermarket (JPP) header
-DNX exhaust
-Injen Short-Ram Intake (SRI)

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10-31-2008 12:37 PM
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gtkco Offline
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Post: #8
RE: Anyone else's fuse holder on HHO positive fry???
RDKamikaze Wrote:Wow guys, thanks for the warm welcoming....

RDK your always welcome. My breaker, according to the Napa guy, works on heat. Once above a certain heat it blows. When is cools below that heat it resets itself. No switches or things. It has a certain life however. Something like a 100? times before it stops working. The holders are rated by amps also. Mine is a 30 amp holder but I got the 25 amp breaker. I could have got a 15 amp or 30 amp rated breaker and use the same holder. My guess is that it doesn't act quite as fast as a fuse so it is not quite as safe but I haven't confirmed that yet.
10-31-2008 03:03 PM
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hydrotinkerer Offline
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Post: #9
RE: Anyone else's fuse holder on HHO positive fry???
Like gtkco said circuit breakers are more or less thermo-breakers. The only thing I don't like about them is even though you have one rated for say 20amps. Some of them may not break until 30amp. It depends on the amount of heat the circuit it is hooked to generates. I suggested the maxi just because most vehicles have them in high current draw applications. They also dissapate heat a little better than regular atc fuses. The rule of thumb in automotive is go with a fuse rated for double the load drawn. That means for a 10amp load you go with a fuse, wiring and mount rated for 20.
10-31-2008 04:00 PM
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gtkco Offline
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RE: Anyone else's fuse holder on HHO positive fry???
hydrotinkerer Wrote:....The only thing I don't like about them is even though you have one rated for say 20amps. Some of them may not break until 30amp...
Ohhh! I don't like the sound of that at all!
hydrotinkerer Wrote:The rule of thumb in automotive is go with a fuse rated for double the load drawn. That means for a 10amp load you go with a fuse, wiring and mount rated for 20.
So, what your are saying is that breakers designed for autos are not very tight on their breaking specs. They could break at 50% high or 50% low of their amp rating. Well, for lab purposes I'll keep the breaker, but for the car install I guess the safe option is to do the fuse. Is that right? Or is that also true of fuses for cars as well?
(This post was last modified: 10-31-2008 07:53 PM by gtkco.)
10-31-2008 07:28 PM
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