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CEL code
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koya1893 Offline
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Post: #1
CEL code
Hello everyone I am new to the forum but have been expermenting with HHO for Months and recently included EFIE's from Fuel Saver part of the system I've been working with. My new experiment is my 2009 Ford F-150 with wide band in front and wide band on the rear. Several codes popped up: 135 - O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1) and 155 - O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 2 sensor 1). I am thinking this are the front sensor since I am not sure if I started the adjustment correctly.

I appreciate any help. thank you in advance.
10-28-2009 03:07 AM
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colchiro Offline
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Post: #2
RE: CEL code
Bank 1 should be a front sensors and bank 2 the rear.

Sensor 1 might be the same side as #1 cylinder but I'm not 100% positive of that.

If you're throwing a heater code that wasn't there before, I'd check the wiring and make sure I have the correct wires. Heaters are usually 12 volts but might change based on sensor temp. You didn't cut any wires or leave them unplugged?

You sure about the wide band rear sensors? I've never heard of one.

Rick

Links: Documents / Tuning for Mileage | Toyota Sensors | Autoshop Sensor Tutorials
10-28-2009 12:25 PM
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koya1893 Offline
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RE: CEL code
(10-28-2009 12:25 PM)colchiro Wrote:  Bank 1 should be a front sensors and bank 2 the rear.

Sensor 1 might be the same side as #1 cylinder but I'm not 100% positive of that.

If you're throwing a heater code that wasn't there before, I'd check the wiring and make sure I have the correct wires. Heaters are usually 12 volts but might change based on sensor temp. You didn't cut any wires or leave them unplugged?

You sure about the wide band rear sensors? I've never heard of one.

I wrote Mike about this code he also mentioned I might have mixed up the "pump wire" with the heater. To verify I unplug the power and the signal wire from the wide band EFIE and started the truck. the codes came back, now that it might be a rear sensor setting the codes I'll re-read the wire and make sure I have the correct wire for the rear sensors.
10-29-2009 02:58 AM
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colchiro Offline
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Post: #4
RE: CEL code
Where did you connect your efie wires, under the hood or at the ECU?

How did you connect them (did you cut the wires)?

Did you get the codes read?

The nicest thing about the WB efie is that you only need to attach one wire to each O2, no wire cutting necessary like the NB version.

Rick

Links: Documents / Tuning for Mileage | Toyota Sensors | Autoshop Sensor Tutorials
10-29-2009 12:38 PM
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koya1893 Offline
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Post: #5
RE: CEL code
(10-29-2009 12:38 PM)colchiro Wrote:  Where did you connect your efie wires, under the hood or at the ECU?

How did you connect them (did you cut the wires)?

Did you get the codes read?

The nicest thing about the WB efie is that you only need to attach one wire to each O2, no wire cutting necessary like the NB version.

I guest you could say under the hood and at the ECU. On this newer F-150 the ECU is mounted through the firewall in front of the passenger side. It was passed through the firewall with the cannon plugs coming out into the engine bay. So finding the wires was easy and connecting them is even easier.

I did not cut any wires, I simply took alittle of the shield and wrapped the signal wire from the EFIE and covered it with the liquid tape then re-wrapped the entire buddle.

The original codes were 2195 and 2197, according to the company who made the scanner (I called them because those two codes were not in the book that came with the scanner) those two codes means "stock in lean position" So I moved the "pot" further up over 1/4 turn and set the rear narrow band to 150mv.

Started the truck no codes, but as soon as I started it to go out the codes popped up: 135 and 155 these two are pointing at the O2 heater malfunctioning. 135 according to the manual: O2 sensor heater circuit malfunctioning (bank 1 sensor) and 155 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunctioning (bank 1 sensor 1).

These codes did not show up until I turned the wide band Pot full CCW and then attempt to set it to 1/4. I did this because I was working on a Scion tc when I turned the pot from where it was positioned when I got it from Fuel Saver, about a 1/4 CW it did not ran well. then I turned it CCW to about 11 O' Clock it ran fine.

Then I started to read some of the threads here and someone suggested in one to the thread to turn the Pot full CCW and start from there. I did that to Scion and it ran great, so since I started incorrectly with my F-150 which is now set between 2 and 3 O' Clock position thinking the 1/4 to 1/2 suggested in the installation instruction is from where the Pot is positioned when it arrived from Fuel Saver, which was at 12 O' Clock. I didn't read in the installation to take it full CCW and then start from there to gain the 1/4 turn (9 O' Clock) and to 1/2 (12 O' Clock). So after gaining the knowledge to take it full CCW and then start from there I thought I would re-configure my truck and follow that suggestion. At first the truck ran rough as I was turning the pot to gain the 1/4 turn, as I was turning it was getting smoother so I left it at 1/4 (9 O' Clock).

The truck runs great haven't tested it for any gain the way it is set up: 1/4 on the wide band and .100mv on the two narrow band rear sensor. I've exchanged email with mike to make sure I have the correct "pump wire" and we agreed that I have the correct wire I even double check the voltage on the wide band and the narrow band. I checked the way they are splice.
I am lost now I even disconnected the Neg. on the Batt to re-set the ECU. I still got the codes:

Sorry for the book.
10-29-2009 06:01 PM
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colchiro Offline
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Post: #6
RE: CEL code
A code P0135 or P0155 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• O2 Heater element resistance is high
• Internal short or open in the heater element
• O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance
• open or short to ground in the wiring harness


P2195 - O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P2197 - O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

From what I read, these two lean codes can be caused by a vacuum leak, or I assume by your efie cranked too high.


So all you have now is the heater codes?
Does your reader show that the engine stays in open loop now?

At this point I would think you'd want to reverse any changes to get the heater codes to go away before moving forward. This would mean no hho and no efie.

It's not normal to have heater codes. Lean codes and slow o2 codes can be explained from a setting too high but not heater codes. At this point I'd suspect a connector that came off, a blown fuse or a wire that got pinched and grounded.

Rick

Links: Documents / Tuning for Mileage | Toyota Sensors | Autoshop Sensor Tutorials
(This post was last modified: 10-30-2009 02:17 PM by colchiro.)
10-30-2009 02:16 PM
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