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Dueal EIFE promblem
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min9 Offline
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Post: #1
Sad Dueal EIFE promblem
A month ago I bought DUAL Digital Narrow Band EFIE, yesterday I've received my package, installed it in the SAAB 9000 CSE, 2.3t 1995-05-05/147kW. I looked for the signal wire from O2sensor with my multimeter, I hooked it to the signal wire, connected rest of the wires to 12+, ground. Turned on hho generator with EIFE. Everything was ok for a minute or so(power, and activity led was on) but later engine came out with the error with O2sensor code. I went to mechanic (without EIFE and HHO) who told me that I used wrong wire( my O2sensor has 3 wires:black,white,white). I hooked it up to one of the white wire which I suppose was 12+. Today I managed to reconect EIFE to that black wire which is signal (mechanic told me), and that white one connected back as it was before. Now I start the car, engine works, but still gets the error for O2sensor when it warms up,I suppose I need to change my O2sensor, bc it gets the same error when its all set up as factory settings. I was browsing forum and could not find anything related with my problem, I only came up with the instructions how to check if EIFE is working (atm only power led is on on the EIFE). When I plug multimeter to EIFE it shows 0.45 and when I try to lean or rich fuel it shows the same 0.45 . Now I wonder is my Digital Narrow DUAL Band EFIE working or not, and what I can do for EIFE to let me change the values for computer? Tomorow I hope I'll change O2sensor with new one and hook up EIFE again
09-03-2009 09:35 PM
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qsiguy Offline
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RE: Dueal EIFE promblem
Did you or the shop reset the O2 sensor fault? It may not reset on it's own, at least not for a few cycles of the ECU. If you ran 12V through the EFIE you may have caused some damage to it but Mike will have to chime in on that one. Have you verified for sure that the wire you have now is only 1 volt max and that it does swing up/down properly indicating it's the correct wire?

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09-03-2009 09:47 PM
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min9 Offline
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RE: Dueal EIFE promblem
(09-03-2009 09:47 PM)qsiguy Wrote:  Did you or the shop reset the O2 sensor fault? It may not reset on it's own, at least not for a few cycles of the ECU. If you ran 12V through the EFIE you may have caused some damage to it but Mike will have to chime in on that one. Have you verified for sure that the wire you have now is only 1 volt max and that it does swing up/down properly indicating it's the correct wire?

I reset the O2 sensor fault by unpluging for 20min power cable from acumulator. I gues noq I hooked to the right wire bc mechanic looked for it when I was aroung. He works with LPG gas and they are used to change them or add O2sens emulators for LPG. So I think the black one is the right one
09-03-2009 09:57 PM
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qsiguy Offline
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RE: Dueal EIFE promblem
Well, personally I would check the volts with the engine running and at operating temp before I just took anyone's word for it. You state above you read .45 V on the EFIE, I assume you mean between the in and out leads. What is it from ground to one of the leads? If this is how you are checking and it's just sitting at .45 volts then it's possible that our O2 sensor is now bad which is why it's sitting at .45 volts.

If you can be a little more specific on how you are testing the volts we can probably help a little better.

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09-03-2009 10:05 PM
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min9 Offline
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RE: Dueal EIFE promblem
(09-03-2009 10:05 PM)qsiguy Wrote:  Well, personally I would check the volts with the engine running and at operating temp before I just took anyone's word for it. You state above you read .45 V on the EFIE, I assume you mean between the in and out leads. What is it from ground to one of the leads? If this is how you are checking and it's just sitting at .45 volts then it's possible that our O2 sensor is now bad which is why it's sitting at .45 volts.

If you can be a little more specific on how you are testing the volts we can probably help a little better.

Yes sir, Ill try to be more clearlySmile with my english..
In couple hours I'm going to c mechanic, with the new O2sen, hes gonna replace my old one, so I can start with fresh engine for this mater. Now its been two different mechanics who said that the signal wire is black(i'll test it by myself when I get it fixed). So, in 3-4hour I'll have my fresh engine back, I'll heat the engine for 5 min, try to find the signal wire, (as mechanic tested wires, and said its black). THen I do this, I hook up EIFE to signal wire and if I do everything OK, it should be allowing me to adjust voltige between white and green wires (0.45v (EIFE) or else its broken? (both times when I hooked it to two different wires it wouldnt allow me to do this, but first time the power and activity led was on)
09-03-2009 10:25 PM
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mike Offline
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RE: Dueal EIFE promblem
Hi Guys,

First of all, min9, I'm sorry you had to wait a month for your EFIE. We always ship within 1 day. What delivery service took 1 month? That's awful. What country are you in?

Anyway, putting 12 volts on the EFIEs signal input is not a problem. That won't damage it. You just need to get the signal wire identified and get it on the correct wire. You might want to watch the video that is in the instructions so you can see what your signal wire should look like. Then you can be sure you have found the right wire.

Another way you can tell that you are on the correct wire is that the green leds blink on and off. If you see them blinking, then you can be sure you have found the correct wire and your EFIE is installed correctly.

If you still have a check engine light, you should probably set the front (digital) efies at about .350 volts, and the rear efies at about .150 volts. These won't give you the best gas mileage, but shouldn't cause check engine lights. If the computer will accept these values, then you can turn both pots clockwise to cause the engine to run leaner. You'll probably end up at about .275 on the front and about .25 on the rear.

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(This post was last modified: 09-04-2009 09:36 AM by mike.)
09-04-2009 08:46 AM
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min9 Offline
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Post: #7
RE: Dueal EIFE promblem
(09-04-2009 08:46 AM)mike Wrote:  Hi Guys,

First of all, min9, I'm sorry you had to wait a month for your EFIE. We always ship within 1 day. What delivery service took 1 month? That's awful. What country are you in?

Anyway, putting 12 volts on the EFIEs signal input is not a problem. That won't damage it. You just need to get the signal wire identified and get it on the correct wire. You might want to watch the video that is in the instructions so you can see what your signal wire should look like. Then you can be sure you have found the right wire.

Another way you can tell that you are on the correct wire is that the green leds blink on and off. If you see them blinking, then you can be sure you have found the correct wire and your EFIE is installed correctly.

If you still have a check engine light, you should probably set the front (digital) efies at about .350 volts, and the rear efies at about .150 volts. These won't give you the best gas mileage, but shouldn't cause check engine lights. If the computer will accept these values, then you can turn both pots clockwise to cause the engine to run leaner. You'll probably end up at about .275 on the front and about .25 on the rear.

I live in Vilnius, Lithuania. I bought EIFE from your retailer, HYBRIDWaterPower.com Anyway, I think I'm stucked with HHO now..
Atm I have installed everything what I need to run car with oxygen-on-demand(hho gen,abubler, pwm and eife) Everything works great exept eife. It works (red power led always on and activity is flashing when i try to accelerate) but no success. I'm 100% possitive that I connected it right where it needs to be(closer to cars computer on a signal wire(bc activity led flashes) I've changed my O2 sensor, it should be working fine. I have set 0.200v on EIFE. EIFE starts at 0,454 and later it drops to .200v and it looks like it has no effect on the engine, maybe a little leaner mix. I've tryed with .150v setup it was the same or a bit beter, engine looked performing better but still getting check engine error. I've tryed lower .145 and the engine started to dieSmile, so I turned back to 0.200v. I did a test drive without hho and eife, and with hho with eife set to.200v and .150v and got better mileage without hho. Difference is ~1,5liter on a 100km distance, ~90km/h. I dont have map/maf enhancer , maybe thats why EIFE doesnt help or this is all due to check engine error? My car is SAAB 9000 cse 2.3t 1995-05-05 and I have no clue what to do next with check engine problemSad
09-06-2009 06:19 AM
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mike Offline
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RE: Dueal EIFE promblem
Hi min9,

Thank you.

Everything you are saying sounds fine, except the following:

Quote:Everything works great exept eife. It works (red power led always on and activity is flashing when i try to accelerate)

I'm assuming from your comments that the activity light is not flashing when the car is at idle or is cruising. Is that right?

The activity lights should be flashing at all times the engine is running. If they are not flashing (either always on or always off), then the EFIE is not set properly. They should be flashing at idle and while cruising. Actually, they might not flash during heavy acceleration because the engine is in open loop at that time, and not paying attention to the oxygen sensors. But all the rest of the time they should be flashing on and off regularly.

If would be nice if you could read the code with a code reader. I'd like to know what the engine code is. However, if I were going to guess, I'd say it's the downstream sensor that is causing the trouble. You might try hooking up the unused EFIE to that downstream sensor. It's probably reporting too much difference from the upstream sensor and throwing that error.

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09-07-2009 09:15 AM
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colchiro Offline
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Post: #9
RE: Dueal EIFE promblem
Min9, many auto parts stores will read and reset your codes for free, but you should call ahead and ask first.

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09-07-2009 09:36 AM
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min9 Offline
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RE: Dueal EIFE promblem
(09-07-2009 09:15 AM)mike Wrote:  Hi min9,

Thank you.

Everything you are saying sounds fine, except the following:

Quote:Everything works great exept eife. It works (red power led always on and activity is flashing when i try to accelerate)

I'm assuming from your comments that the activity light is not flashing when the car is at idle or is cruising. Is that right?

The activity lights should be flashing at all times the engine is running. If they are not flashing (either always on or always off), then the EFIE is not set properly. They should be flashing at idle and while cruising. Actually, they might not flash during heavy acceleration because the engine is in open loop at that time, and not paying attention to the oxygen sensors. But all the rest of the time they should be flashing on and off regularly.

If would be nice if you could read the code with a code reader. I'd like to know what the engine code is. However, if I were going to guess, I'd say it's the downstream sensor that is causing the trouble. You might try hooking up the unused EFIE to that downstream sensor. It's probably reporting too much difference from the upstream sensor and throwing that error.
I'm having O2 sens error code (6 blinks), this is the only thing I can read bc I dont have cable and soft for my pc. The activity led flashes 1-2 times per 10sec for some time and after engine gets that error. I've try to push accelerator for a couple min or more, and the engine was fine untill I released acc. The interesting thing is that activty led lights when I accelerate. I always thought that my car has only 1 O2 sensor..
09-07-2009 09:40 AM
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