Efie & Map Enhancer

[03WJ4.0]

Hi Forum,

I've recently concluded some testing on the Efie and Map Enhancers and the results were less then stellar. I've tried to be as "scientific" about it as possible, simply to promote the smart use of these devices. I'll describe the before and after.

Constant values:
HHO output= 2-2.5 LPM
Test Miles Distance= 300
MPH=55
O2 sensor= New 4x Denso

Stock With Efie (Quad) + Dual Edge MAP
MPG 21 26(+23.81) 24.5(+16.67)
MAP 4.2 5.5 7.3
GPH 5.5 4.6(-16.36) 7.0(+27.27)

I'm not clear about the function of the MAP enhancer. From what I've read up on mpg.com site, the lower the pressure in the manifold the better but what I'm experiencing is as I lean the dial the worse the milage. I've verified the the wiring and tested the MAP sensor output. Switching "OFF" the MAP Enhancer restores the mpg's.

Your input is welcomed
Thank you

[mike]

I recommend you try your tests again, but turn off the MAP enhancer entirely. Just use the EFIE. You may have to test at various settings to get the best mileage gain.

We don't usually recommend using both devices together. If you make too much change to the engine, the computer can get confused and your mileage can actually get worse. Just use the EFIE, and you should be able to get the gains you were expecting.

Once you have maximized the gains from the EFIE you might try turning the MAPe back on, but use it very sparingly. Just very small changes. If mileage continues to increase, continue adding MAPe adjustment until you get the maximum fuel mileage. If it gets worse, then leave it off.

[03WJ4.0]

(05-30-2011 07:52 AM)mike Wrote:  I recommend you try your tests again, but turn off the MAP enhancer entirely. Just use the EFIE. You may have to test at various settings to get the best mileage gain.

We don't usually recommend using both devices together. If you make too much change to the engine, the computer can get confused and your mileage can actually get worse. Just use the EFIE, and you should be able to get the gains you were expecting.

Once you have maximized the gains from the EFIE you might try turning the MAPe back on, but use it very sparingly. Just very small changes. If mileage continues to increase, continue adding MAPe adjustment until you get the maximum fuel mileage. If it gets worse, then leave it off.

---

Hi Mike,
thanks for the feedback.
I've disconnected the MAP/MAF and retested. The mpg's are restored/normalized to 23+.
I'm now dealing with DTC codes of P0137 & P0157 that get triggered in the warm up cycle only on first start up?
I've turned the analog/rear pot in both directions (rich/lean) in .005 increments and can't find the sweet spot.

thanks
Joseph

[mike]

Both of those codes are low voltage on the downstream sensor. That means you need to raise the setting on the EFIE going to the downstream sensors. Add 50 mv, or possibly even 100 mv.

[03WJ4.0]

(06-02-2011 08:04 AM)mike Wrote:  Both of those codes are low voltage on the downstream sensor. That means you need to raise the setting on the EFIE going to the downstream sensors. Add 50 mv, or possibly even 100 mv.

Mike, when you say "raise" or add the voltage, you mean turn the pot clockwise?

thanks

[mike]

Yes, exactly. That will raise the voltage that the EFIE is adding to the oxygen sensor's signal wire. It should make that "low voltage" code go away.

[03WJ4.0]

Hi Mike,
I've now maxed out on the EFIE's rear (analog) pot. It reads .349v, any adjustment beyond that doesn't change the voltage value.
I continue to trigger the CEL.
There is a clear difference when driving without clearing the cel(mpg's).
I've noticed that it goes into "Open Loop" status and the green lights on the EFIE turn off.

puzzled
Joseph

[mike]

Are you sure you found the correct signal wire? Did you measure it? If so, what voltages did you see?

I can't imagine needing more than .35 volts on an EFIE anyway. But are you saying you have had the same engine code (low voltage on downstream sensor) the whole time, no matter what you set the EFIE to? If so, I really suspect you have the wrong wire.

[03WJ4.0]

(06-16-2011 08:05 AM)mike Wrote:  Are you sure you found the correct signal wire? Did you measure it? If so, what voltages did you see?

I can't imagine needing more than .35 volts on an EFIE anyway. But are you saying you have had the same engine code (low voltage on downstream sensor) the whole time, no matter what you set the EFIE to? If so, I really suspect you have the wrong wire.

Hi, Mike,
sorry I sorta dropped off the planet there for a while.
Anyhoo, I've tested all the wires (4) and found one (signal) generating 1.2-1.4v. Second wire tested showed .002mv.
Just to be clear these are post cat O2 sensors

thanks

[mike]

What kind of car is this? Did you ever measure the signal wire or one of your upstream sensors? What values did you see?

The reason I'm asking is that there is a fairly rare type of o2 sensor that used to be used that had a voltage range of 1 to 5 volts (instead of 0 to 1 volt), and the voltage logic is reversed as well. I'm not saying you have that kind of sensor, 1.2 to 1.4 volts is too much for a normal sensor. If you have this type of sensor it's vital we identify it if you are going to be successful. Please check your upstream sensor's voltage on the signal wire with the engine running.