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Efie System not working
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Aldo Putinja Offline
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Post: #1
Efie System not working
I am running 30-35amps at the moment an I am producing a gas that when ignited will explode.

My vehicle has one O2 sensor pre catylictic converter that I have recently replaced.

The EFIE was connected in the terminals you have recommended, however, their has been no change in engine revs or idle, in any of the locations that I have connected. To adjust an EFIE they say increase the millivolts until the engine runs so lean that it almost stalls and back it up from there. I think the recommended No. is around the 150mv. The problem I am facing with this system is that the EFIE cannot lower the amount of fuel flow into the engine. It is sending the set millivolts increase to the vehicles ECU, but with no decrease in fuel consumption. Infact I have even run the the engine with the o2 sensor disconnected to find no change in revs/idle not even a warning light on the dash.

This leads me to the next part- I have tried to reset the vehicles computer by disconnecting the battery for 30mins-again with no effect. I move the EFIE reading from max to min and test mileage each time and I am getting the same fuel consumption.

I am under the assumption that some ECU’s will not recognise an O2 sensor that it believes is giving a “faulty” (different to the norm) reading and therefore I am wondering if there is another device such as a MAP/MAF adjuster to do the same job as the EFIE for the o2 sensor. Some have also called these a “lambar” device. In the hope to “trick” the ECU to deliver less fuel into the engine.

Some more info that may help in the search for answers- The Ford is fitted with an Aircharge sensor that is controlled by a variable voltage signal. The O2 sensor is controlled via a frequency signal(hertz) apparently depending on the signal that contros it depends on the type of EFIE( I am thinking maybe i don’t have the correct one?)
03-11-2012 06:59 PM
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mike Offline
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Post: #2
RE: Efie System not working
(03-11-2012 06:59 PM)Aldo Putinja Wrote:  I am running 30-35amps at the moment an I am producing a gas that when ignited will explode.

My vehicle has one O2 sensor pre catylictic converter that I have recently replaced.

The EFIE was connected in the terminals you have recommended, however, their has been no change in engine revs or idle, in any of the locations that I have connected. To adjust an EFIE they say increase the millivolts until the engine runs so lean that it almost stalls and back it up from there. I think the recommended No. is around the 150mv. The problem I am facing with this system is that the EFIE cannot lower the amount of fuel flow into the engine. It is sending the set millivolts increase to the vehicles ECU, but with no decrease in fuel consumption. Infact I have even run the the engine with the o2 sensor disconnected to find no change in revs/idle not even a warning light on the dash.

This leads me to the next part- I have tried to reset the vehicles computer by disconnecting the battery for 30mins-again with no effect. I move the EFIE reading from max to min and test mileage each time and I am getting the same fuel consumption.

I am under the assumption that some ECU’s will not recognise an O2 sensor that it believes is giving a “faulty” (different to the norm) reading and therefore I am wondering if there is another device such as a MAP/MAF adjuster to do the same job as the EFIE for the o2 sensor. Some have also called these a “lambar” device. In the hope to “trick” the ECU to deliver less fuel into the engine.

Some more info that may help in the search for answers- The Ford is fitted with an Aircharge sensor that is controlled by a variable voltage signal. The O2 sensor is controlled via a frequency signal(hertz) apparently depending on the signal that contros it depends on the type of EFIE( I am thinking maybe i don’t have the correct one?)

This sounds like a problem with your engine. But to back up a step, not all cars will make any change at idle when you adjust an EFIE. If their computer is programmed for a minimum fuel flow at idle, no change will be detectable, because the computer won't drop below that minimum flow, no matter what you do with the sensors. So that cannot be used as a method to set the EFIE in this case.

What kind of EFIE do you have? Digital or analog? Analog adds voltage, but digital works on a different principal, described here: http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/the-digital...w-it-works .

Finally, I don't know what vehicle you're working with there, but 35 amps is way too much. We use 25 amps on 15L semis. More is not better. That is probably your biggest problem right now. See this article: http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/how-much-hho-should-i-use

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03-13-2012 08:00 AM
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tacotoy Offline
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Post: #3
RE: Efie System not working
(03-11-2012 06:59 PM)Aldo Putinja Wrote:  I am running 30-35amps at the moment an I am producing a gas that when ignited will explode.

My vehicle has one O2 sensor pre catylictic converter that I have recently replaced.

The EFIE was connected in the terminals you have recommended, however, their has been no change in engine revs or idle, in any of the locations that I have connected. To adjust an EFIE they say increase the millivolts until the engine runs so lean that it almost stalls and back it up from there. I think the recommended No. is around the 150mv. The problem I am facing with this system is that the EFIE cannot lower the amount of fuel flow into the engine. It is sending the set millivolts increase to the vehicles ECU, but with no decrease in fuel consumption. Infact I have even run the the engine with the o2 sensor disconnected to find no change in revs/idle not even a warning light on the dash.

This leads me to the next part- I have tried to reset the vehicles computer by disconnecting the battery for 30mins-again with no effect. I move the EFIE reading from max to min and test mileage each time and I am getting the same fuel consumption.

I am under the assumption that some ECU’s will not recognise an O2 sensor that it believes is giving a “faulty” (different to the norm) reading and therefore I am wondering if there is another device such as a MAP/MAF adjuster to do the same job as the EFIE for the o2 sensor. Some have also called these a “lambar” device. In the hope to “trick” the ECU to deliver less fuel into the engine.

Some more info that may help in the search for answers- The Ford is fitted with an Aircharge sensor that is controlled by a variable voltage signal. The O2 sensor is controlled via a frequency signal(hertz) apparently depending on the signal that contros it depends on the type of EFIE( I am thinking maybe i don’t have the correct one?)

I came here to post this exact same problem. I have a 99 Tacoma 3.6 and a Quad Effie with the upstream O2 connected to digital, and the downstream connected to analog. There is absolutely no change in engine idle when any of the effies are adjusted. There is also no change when the o2 is disconnected on the vehicle. There are no error codes on the computer to indicate any engine problems. And the engine runs strong and idles normal. Amperage is between 25-28 on HHO.
03-23-2012 01:32 PM
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mike Offline
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RE: Efie System not working
Ever change the o2 sensors? It may be that they're just shot.

The computer doesn't necessarily throw a code. It may not show up except in the port reader.

But even if the sensors are fine, many cars are programmed to never go below a certain fuel flow. These vehicles will not lug down as the EFIE is adjusted. This point is covered in the instructions.

The thing to do is give it a reasonable setting (as per the instructions), and then drive, and check your fuel mileage. Adjust it down from there until you get the best possible mileage. When it starts getting worse, or you experience any lack of horsepower, then you have gone too far. All of this is in the instructions.

However, what's not in the instructions is the amount of HHO you need for that engine. You are running it too hot. Please see this article: http://www.dry-cells.com/how-much-hho . Your mileage will improve if you cut back on the amps - and will come down more when you get your EFIE set correctly.

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03-23-2012 03:32 PM
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tacotoy Offline
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Post: #5
RE: Efie System not working
Never changed them. In Toyota's i'm told by service guys they will spit out a code.

I followed the instructions, but there is absolutely no change in idle whatsoever. Also there is no change in horsepower even at the lowest voltage setting. I've done milage tests with it on the lowest setting and mileage decreases with HHO running.

The particular cell I have is specified to run at 30 amps.
03-23-2012 04:24 PM
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mike Offline
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RE: Efie System not working
None of that changes what I said in the earlier posts. If an engine has a bad sensor, it won't necessarily throw a code. But it won't change voltage very fast either. The ECU will tend to ignore its data, which means it will run in open loop. When in open loop, any engine runs great. Lots of horsepower, sounds great, doesn't get hot. Fantastic... except for the mileage. That will be poor. Sensors are supposed to be changed out every 70K miles or so. Your '91 probably has about 170K miles. The sensors will not work very well.

As for HHO: It doesn't matter what the cell is specified for. If you make more HHO than the engine needs, your mileage will go down. It's just a fact. I suggest you try some lower amperages and see for yourself. I've solved quite a number of "failed" installations just by having the guy cut the amperage way back.

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03-23-2012 08:40 PM
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tacotoy Offline
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RE: Efie System not working
(03-23-2012 08:40 PM)mike Wrote:  None of that changes what I said in the earlier posts. If an engine has a bad sensor, it won't necessarily throw a code. But it won't change voltage very fast either. The ECU will tend to ignore its data, which means it will run in open loop. When in open loop, any engine runs great. Lots of horsepower, sounds great, doesn't get hot. Fantastic... except for the mileage. That will be poor. Sensors are supposed to be changed out every 70K miles or so. Your '91 probably has about 170K miles. The sensors will not work very well.

As for HHO: It doesn't matter what the cell is specified for. If you make more HHO than the engine needs, your mileage will go down. It's just a fact. I suggest you try some lower amperages and see for yourself. I've solved quite a number of "failed" installations just by having the guy cut the amperage way back.

So you're suggesting to buy new o2 sensors, about $200-300 in order to properly adjust the fuel and air mixture with the EFIE?
03-23-2012 08:59 PM
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mike Offline
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RE: Efie System not working
I can usually get them online for about $50 or so, but yes. That's what I'm saying. I'm also saying that getting rid of shot sensors will improve your fuel mileage no matter what else you do. I think you're computer has been running in open loop, and that always means worse mileage.

I believe I said a few other things along the way too. And chief among those is you'll need to drop those amps considerably to get good mileage gains. I don't know if you ever did that.

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03-24-2012 09:55 AM
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tacotoy Offline
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RE: Efie System not working
No I didn't drop the amps. So basically less electrolyte? start at 10 amps?

Also, does it matter if I replace both or just the post cat o2 or just the pre cat o2?
(This post was last modified: 03-24-2012 10:47 AM by tacotoy.)
03-24-2012 10:29 AM
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mike Offline
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RE: Efie System not working
Yes, 10 amps is a good starting place. You can add more KOH pretty easily, but thinning the mix down is harder. I think you'll be surprised at the mileage response you get at the lower amps. Be sure to post your results.

Probably you can get away with leaving the post cat sensor. It (the voltage) doesn't change much anyway. If you get some error codes for that sensor, you can probably fix them by adjusting the downstream EFIE. On the other hand, if I were doing it, I would change them both. Again, they should only cost about $50. Generic o2 sensors work fine.

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03-25-2012 08:48 PM
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