aghhhhhhhhhh my assumption was wrong.!!!!!!!!!!!!!.... it returned nxt day....undelivered...i willkeep trying though.

I am in the same boat as you guys. finished the build and install with only a few hiccups. I may be able to help with some of the questions re mixtures. Electrolyte mix= 5 tablespoons of salt/1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide in 500ml distilled water. One gallon is approximately 3.78 L (referenced from my milk jug) The hydrolyzer was filled approximately 80% (should cover the max cell) and the bubbler at approx the same height as the hydrolyzer once filled with water.

My problem aside from the lack of tech support and missing book is that upon ignition the HHO generator shorted out immediately and the hydrolyzer solution was filled with a brown precipitate. I assume after looking at it that the metal bolts and washers were an alloy and not stainless steel. They appeared to have oxided once a current was applied. I repeated the ignition after disassembling, washing and drying the unit. Same thing the second time. Any ideas? I am replacing the bolts and washers to r/o the above possibility.

I am in same boat! No tech support or response, Max cell tests OK dry but shorts out anytime liquid introduced-even tap water. Replaced bolts, dried and reassembled system etc. Nothing works.

Did talk to person who thought cell might be drawing to much current. Will put gadget on to limit current to cell.

If any body has answer let us know.

mmarant2000 Wrote:I am in the same boat as you guys. finished the build and install with only a few hiccups. I may be able to help with some of the questions re mixtures. Electrolyte mix= 5 tablespoons of salt/1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide in 500ml distilled water. One gallon is approximately 3.78 L (referenced from my milk jug) The hydrolyzer was filled approximately 80% (should cover the max cell) and the bubbler at approx the same height as the hydrolyzer once filled with water.

My problem aside from the lack of tech support and missing book is that upon ignition the HHO generator shorted out immediately and the hydrolyzer solution was filled with a brown precipitate. I assume after looking at it that the metal bolts and washers were an alloy and not stainless steel. They appeared to have oxided once a current was applied. I repeated the ignition after disassembling, washing and drying the unit. Same thing the second time. Any ideas? I am replacing the bolts and washers to r/o the above possibility.

HHO Saver Wrote:I am in same boat! No tech support or response, Max cell tests OK dry but shorts out anytime liquid introduced-even tap water. Replaced bolts, dried and reassembled system etc. Nothing works.

Did talk to person who thought cell might be drawing to much current. Will put gadget on to limit current to cell.

If any body has answer let us know.

mmarant2000 Wrote:I am in the same boat as you guys. finished the build and install with only a few hiccups. I may be able to help with some of the questions re mixtures. Electrolyte mix= 5 tablespoons of salt/1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide in 500ml distilled water. One gallon is approximately 3.78 L (referenced from my milk jug) The hydrolyzer was filled approximately 80% (should cover the max cell) and the bubbler at approx the same height as the hydrolyzer once filled with water.

My problem aside from the lack of tech support and missing book is that upon ignition the HHO generator shorted out immediately and the hydrolyzer solution was filled with a brown precipitate. I assume after looking at it that the metal bolts and washers were an alloy and not stainless steel. They appeared to have oxided once a current was applied. I repeated the ignition after disassembling, washing and drying the unit. Same thing the second time. Any ideas? I am replacing the bolts and washers to r/o the above possibility.

change the plate configuration to reflect a + N - N +.

The system as shown in the book doesn't have neutral plates. They cut the amps used by 50% and produce both hydrogen and oxygen. you'll put it together the same, but for the neutral plates, just cut off the parts that the screws would go through.
The gas4free support is a joke. I did this plate config. and now it works without blowing any fuses. After several minutes it does get hot, but so far everyting seems ok. The solution in the book is bad also. Try just 1/2 teaspoon baking soda or Naoh, and go from there.

alright, I tried a few things and it's better. First I made sure the metal bolts carrying the polarity were actually stainless as the ones in the first build corroded, oxidized or something. on my second attempt, with original mixture (5 TABLESPOONS) of salt and same result-- failure. 3rd attempt no salt whatsoever just 1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide with distilled water and no problems. Now to actually drive the truck and see what happens.

I understand the salt is to prevent freezing. I suppose I can try adding small amounts of salt. Does anyone have another additive that would lower the freezing point without causing the shorting out? Thanks

sjlsbball Wrote:hi, i have not been able to get any support from g4f can you help.

Seems we are all in the same boat! I bought G4F in July and got 2 emails answered out of ? quite a few ?
The download I got did not even have all the info inthe first book. Would the person who has the %solution please share that? I didn't even get that!
Also, can anyone confirm that the EFIE will NOT work on the 02 Neon? It has 4 wires but I am told by a technician it should not hinder the EFIE as 2 of the wires are only for the heater element in the sensor.
Any thoughts Mike?

Sorry about asking the same questions as others. I didn't realize there were more pages. I have just applied for a refund from ClickBank.
We'll see.
Very disappointing. Still, I will try to include the 2 negative plates to lower the volts.
Still need some ideas about that EFIE/'02' Neon/o2 sensor thing though.

"4whatitsworth"
I completed 2 units from gas4free but could get no support either. I used 1/2" Lexan and 24 guage 316 steel for the plates. Followed all their printed material. Looked great!
Used someones elses post of their formula at 1 teaspoon Lye per gallon of distilled water. Appeared to be working great, producing gas, but the bubbler did not work well. Messed with it all day with no success. Increased the formula in very small increments until it blew my 20 amp fuse. Then backed off to the previous level. Thought things were progressing. Slept on it overnight. Yesterday morning, SURPRISE ! The Lexan had cracked at every screw location and mixture was all over my workbench.
Thought I would try the second one but never go above where I came back to on the first one. Seemed to work fine. Then, this morning, the second one had shattered!
Anyone have an easy to build, workable unit to recommend?

That is really weird! Why should Lexan crack like that?! It is a super strong and durable material. Anyone got any idea on that?

HHO Saver
Did you screw direct into the Lexan without a pilot &/or recess hole? When full but sitting on the bench were they air tight so gas expansion put pressure on system?

Another note. I requested a refund from Clickbank and within 24 hours had a message money had been credited to my credit card. Have not checked to see if credit is really there.

sleeper Wrote:"4whatitsworth"
I completed 2 units from gas4free but could get no support either. I used 1/2" Lexan and 24 guage 316 steel for the plates. Followed all their printed material. Looked great!
Used someones elses post of their formula at 1 teaspoon Lye per gallon of distilled water. Appeared to be working great, producing gas, but the bubbler did not work well. Messed with it all day with no success. Increased the formula in very small increments until it blew my 20 amp fuse. Then backed off to the previous level. Thought things were progressing. Slept on it overnight. Yesterday morning, SURPRISE ! The Lexan had cracked at every screw location and mixture was all over my workbench.
Thought I would try the second one but never go above where I came back to on the first one. Seemed to work fine. Then, this morning, the second one had shattered!
Anyone have an easy to build, workable unit to recommend?