(10-05-2011 07:27 PM)amos33 Wrote:
(03-17-2010 12:40 PM)pfai Wrote: I will try that after I make up some new material for membranes. Was using fiberglass as framework for membrane.
Try using monofiliment mesh..for membrane..
(02-15-2011 03:02 AM)evan manis Wrote: I have put hydrogen booster on my motorbike and produce hydrogen which is quite good but I lost battery power. how so batteries do not lose power? there who can tell me how? Can you tell me how? thank you in advance.
check to see if your battery is being charged, it maybe that your hydrogen booster draws more power than the motorbike charger can supply?
The original H2 cell plan by Hydrodine looked remarkably like the Hydranox 5000 unit being sold on the web. It was a couple hundred dollars per unit and only produced small amounts of H2, but enough to improve mpgs a little. Hydrodines cell should work just like that too. I purchased a 5000 unit and used it for a while on an Isuzu Trooper. It did help some and raised my mpgs by about 2 overall running at about 5 - 6 amps. It finally buckled/warped and stopped working, so i took it apart to look inside. Sure enough it looks just like Hydrodines plans found here on this forum. The center divider plate only goes down about 3/4 of the way to the bottom of the cell leaving the bottom area open for the probes to 'communicate' electrically. The holes in the center divider are about 1/16" diameter, but i think they could be as large as 1/8" since that is what I found in the Hydranox 5000 unit. A key factor is to have openings in the top of the 'electrodes' to allow the H2 gas to escape at the top and travel directly up to the outlet holes in the top of the cell. This rectangular box design is difficult to make, and harder to retain when the unit is put into service. It tends to warp due to heat after some time, and the gases will then mix and you've lost your ability to escape the HHO gas mix.
I've built a unit that is working as well as the 5000, and has now been in service several times longer than the 5000 unit lasted. It is much simpler to build and can be constructed in just a few hours if you have tinkered with this stuff in the past.
If you already have the hardware - S.S. tubing/hose, bolts, washers, nuts etc. and the wiring you've used on other HHO related stuff, you are close to having what you need to make this H2 unit.
All you need now is a cylindrical poly container from the food storage section of your local Wal-Mart. Yeah, I know it doesn't sound 'sexy' but it DOES work. You've probably seen some of these already on youtube dealing with HHO topics.
Now, get some 2" diameter PVC pipe, or some in about that size. Cut it squarely at both ends near the same length as the depth of the Wal-Mart container, just slightly shorter. Take a drill to the lower 1/2 of this PVC pipe and put holes all in it like swiss cheese, but with a little order to it. I'll explain momentairly.......
Make an electrode of the S.S. hose for the center of this cell, by cutting it the same length as the depth of the Wal-Mart container. This electrode will attach to the lid of the container in the center of the lid. I do this by inserting a machine screw into the top of the S.S. hose via a couple of snug fitting flat washers compressed into the hose. This provides a good solid mechanical fit. Now cut a couple of small openings on each side of the hose at the top with a hacksaw (to provide a vent path for the gas that is generated inside the S.S. hose).
Now drill and tap a hole in the center of the container lid the same size as the screw you used for the center electrode. Temporairly thread the electrode assembly into this threaded hole to check fitment. The screw should be long enough to protrude thru the lid enough to attach an electrical wire later.
Drill a second hole near the first hole but not too close. This will be the gas outlet and will need to be sized to match whatever size hose or tubing you choose to rout the gas to your engine with. It must be within the circumference of the center PVC pipe.
With this assembled, now take your PVC pipe and slide it over the center electrode, check for fitment, and alignment to the lid. It should be square and flush all the way around. Hold that thought.
Back to the other electrode configuration: take a longer piece of S.S. tubing/hose and insert a machine screw in one end of it as described earlier on the other electrode. Cut gas outlet holes in the top of the S.S. hose with a hacksaw as mentioned earlier. Now take the S.S. hose and bend, shape, coil it around the PVC pipe a couple of full revolutions around. Note the angle of the coil as it travels from the top to the bottom of the cylinder. As you drill holes in the lower 1/2 of the PVC pipe these holes need to closely match the curvature of the coiled S.S. hose. These holes allow the 2 electrodes to 'communicate' electrically so they need to somewhat line up physically.
Now temporairly remove the center electrode assembly from the lid.
Now drill and tap a hole in the top of the container lid toward the outer perimeter of the lid, outside the area of the PVC pipe that will be attached to the lid. Thread the screw/electrode assembly into the tapped hole, apply a dab of RTV to the top of the electrode just before it contacts the lid for sealing purposes, then carefully tighten the electrode assembly to the lid. The screw should protrude thru the lid enough to connect an electrical wire later. This will be the positive electrode where the O2 gas is formed.
Drill a second hole in this area for the O2 gas outlet hole as described earlier. It must be outside the area of the center PVC pipe.
Now check the hole alignment in the PVC pipe and drill holes such that they closely match the curvature of the outer electrode S.S. hose.
Thread the center electrode assembly into its tapped hole, apply a dab of RTV to the screw where it will contact the lid (to act as a seal) and carefully tighten the screw against the lid. Don't over tighten or the lid will crack!
Now that you have the center electrode in place, you should have a screw protruding above the outside of the lid. This is where you will connect your negative electrical wire lead. This center electrode will be where your H2 gas is formed.
Now the PVC pipe can be slid over the center electrode assembly. Apply a liberal amount of RTV to the end that will contact the lid, and slide it over the center electrode and against the lid. Allow ample time for the RTV to 'set'.
You should be looking at a container lid with 2 electrodes threaded into it, one in the center, one near the outer edge, and with a PVC pipe section RTV'd to the center of the lid covering the center electrode. The holes in the lower section of the PVC pipe should be aligned with the S.S. hose that is curving/wrapped around the outside of it, (the PVC pipe).
After you fit your gas outlet hoses into the remaining holes in the lid, you're ready to mix your electrolyte and assemble your cell for use!!
Simple, rugged, durable, effective H2 cell. Thanks to Hydrodine for the inspiration to try a new approach !!