jdram58 Wrote:Really thanks to who ever posted that thread for the W4gas pdf I have been looking for that for the longest time. And I re downloaded it. If you use water4gas they have what they call a vaporizer which is as well a simple water injection unit. Which I use on my car with the electrolyzers which I am switching to SS plates. After a recent experiment it was a real eye opener for me to see something that actually works and produces a lot of gas.
I only used 4 plates from Lowes of the Smack booster design Sanded off the plastic coating on them and did the center punch treatmemnt on the inside. I then cut them in half and used 1/4 inch nylon threaded rod to arrange and hold them together with with SS nuts as spacers and nylon washers between the pairs double end plates --,(NN),(NN),++, used 12 gauge wires and 4 yellow colored crimp connects to hook to the posts or my old bolts on the Water4Gas covers and to the end posts of the threaded rods. And wala thats it.
My tests showed the jars got hot to about 140 degrees and leveled off but the gas production was incredible in fact even measureable but I didn't do the bottle test. And that was through a check valve and through a bubbler! Which I have never seen a W4Gas wire wrap electolyzer ever be able to do without the assitence of a seperate fish tank air pump. Turn off the pump and the bubbles quit with the wire wrap models. But not with even this simple little plate design. Turned off the pump and still bubbling like crazy!
So if you still got them old W4Gas elctrolyzers laying around thinking this is a bunch of hog wash or you just gave up! You might want to try this little recipe for yourself it is pretty quick simple and easy!
And you may want to then try and add this to your car I think you may actually see and notice some real results. I use NaOH for my solution 4 parts water to one part NaOH "by weight" not volume. It is a very heavily concintrated solution. And your jars despite what people say can handle that heat as they are "canning jars" made to deal with both pressure and heat up to boiling temperatures. Just ask your mom!
And if you read the Hyzor manual you know George even recommends to heat your hyzor in advance with engine coolant how ever you make your design plastic glass or metal with with engine coolant. As a hotter solution lowers the resistance or you can use a PWM if you wish as well. But i would still heat the electrolyzer.
Worried about steam? or water in your engine? Heck I use both. The simple water injection system on this page in pdf and the HHO. And I have a simple fuel warmer as well. where did i come up with this or these idea's "them there Eagle Research Books" and recommendations from "King George" himself! Ha little pun there somebody else said it first though. But he also makes or manufactures these "water welders" or "torches" so I imagine he would be a pretty good source to learn from about browns gas or any gas and many other things or subjects as well.
The reason this worked so well is i believe several things. The plates were prepared as ordered from the Smack booster instructions The solution came from the Hyzor manual along with understanding the container "heat up" principle. The reason they the Lowes ss plates have to be sanded is to remove a plastic clear plastic coating they are covered with and as well to rough up the metal and the pings with the hammer and center punch, then if you wish you can sand blast them but I didn't I just sanded them really good.
I hear everybody talk like heat is a bad thing but heat is part of a lot of chemical processes and reactions. In fact you you can get hydrogen from NaOH and water and just adding cut up aluminum beer or soda cans. And not adding any electricity or power to start this reaction! There is some food for thought for you and you free energy fanaztic's!
This is on you tube to!
They were evenly or similarly spaced with SS nuts and nylon washers in pairs in the Smack fashion. I only had so much room and I was worried about too small of plates. But George recommends even smaller ones then I used and even different metals then "only SS" ! inch high x 5 inches long.
The plates from Lowes are $1.29 each and you only need 4 instead of 16. But the results if you try it will blow you away! This is only if you want to do or try this as an experiment!
Really I couldn't believe what I was seeing? The volume and amount of gas it was scary! I would be willing to put this one glass jar unit up against any Water4Gas 6 pack wire wrap design! Compared to the wire wraps there is no comparison!
I have a "PWM kit" from hydrogen garage but I haven't put it together yet! Getting too old and bad eye sight and them parts are so tiny and my electronic's ability and understanding is limited and something to be desired.
Ya I know I will get around to it eventually or maybe you could send me one for free! And God will bless your efforts and bring it all back to you for your charitable deed!
Thanks for that great information. I have been somewhat disappointed in my gas production from the w4g wire wrap, although it definitely works and is cheap enough. I would really like to see a picture of your design as I am more of a visual guy and can't quite picture the plate design in my brain. I am going to George's site and order his books as it seems he is the man when it comes to knowledge on HHO. Thanks
I do appreciate the info. I went to the Smacks web-site and have somewhat copied that design but am looking for a larger container. I have bench tested a 4 Lowe's light switch cover plate design with a
-nn+ config. and have seen the light and gone to NaOH for the electrolyte. I was able to measure output at about 1 L per min. with about 1 tsp of NaOH in about 1 gal of distilled water. Having a hard time getting that container to seal so having some leaks (HHO) around the lid. I have a similar setup in a water filter container and am working on it today to get it sealed up and also to get my newly arrived EFIE installed and adjusted on my 96 Chev Truck. Will post pictures and results when able. Good luck to us all.