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Installation on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
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mike Offline
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Post: #11
RE: Installation on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
As a note: You can probably set these EFIEs too high without putting the ECU into open loop. Basically, open loop is a safety net, where the ECU is able to see parameters that it doesn't understand, and will then protect itself by ignoring the sensors, and adding more gas.

The reason I stated that you could over lean your engine with these devices is that we have found in our testing so far, that they don't trigger an error in the ECU, causing it to go into open loop.

I'm not trying to be overly cautious. I just want you to understand that you can't use "open loop" or engine codes to determine when the Wide Band EFIE is set too high. Because it doesn't trigger them, even when set too high.

One method we used in the early testing: Let the engine idle with the EFIE pot turned fully counter-clockwise. Then gradually turn the pot clockwise until you hear the engine idle speed lower. Then back it off (counter-clockwise) about a 1/4 turn or so. This should be a pretty safe setting (not too lean). If you drive for a tankful or two and don't get the mileage you are expecting, then add another 1/8 turn clockwise and try again. I wouldn't go any higher than that for an extended period of time.

Let me know if you use this and you find it helpful. I may add some of this to the instructions.
I also got confused by what you meant by "left" and "right". So lets stick with CW (clockwise) and CCW (counter-clockwise).

You should turn your pot all the way CCW to get almost no effect.

You can then turn it slowly CW, with the engine running, until you hear the engine idle speed slow down. Then turn it CCW about 1/4 turn. In other words, you're now going to back it off about 1/4 turn. This should be a pretty good setting for you.

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(This post was last modified: 01-13-2009 10:36 AM by mike.)
01-13-2009 09:38 AM
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candria77 Offline
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Post: #12
RE: Installation on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
Mike,

Thanks so much for you help. I have it installed and it appears to be working correctly now.
01-20-2009 08:05 AM
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colchiro Offline
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Post: #13
RE: Installation on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
Good deal. Thanks for the update.

Rick

Links: Documents / Tuning for Mileage | Toyota Sensors | Autoshop Sensor Tutorials
01-20-2009 03:24 PM
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dslim Offline
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Post: #14
RE: Installation on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
candria77, can you post your results?. I would like to know your increase of mpg.
04-02-2009 01:58 PM
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candria77 Offline
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Post: #15
RE: Installation on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
My results would be a 0 mpg gain so I removed as I dont have the time. I was under the impression that this would not require that much mechanical know how and it turns out you need to not only be a mechanic, but a chemist as well. I will probably put my system back on Ebay when I get some time.
04-03-2009 06:17 AM
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dslim Offline
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Post: #16
RE: Installation on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
Yeah, I also have a toyota FJ, I wasn't able to get any gain either. I gave up after my engine shut itself down while driving in the highway with the hho system running. This isn't something for newbies, I almost cause a bad accident.
04-04-2009 06:48 PM
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shaque10 Offline
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Post: #17
RE: Installation on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
(04-04-2009 06:48 PM)dslim Wrote:  Yeah, I also have a toyota FJ, I wasn't able to get any gain either. I gave up after my engine shut itself down while driving in the highway with the hho system running. This isn't something for newbies, I almost cause a bad accident.

how many KM do you get with a full tank??

I thought FJ engines where really good for this kinde modifications, becaus of the metale engine heads....

I am going to try to run my FJ 45 troop carrier ( 2f engine) fully on hydrogine( whitout the EFI) at this moment it runs on LPG and Petrol and with one full tank I do not get futher than 250 KM.

so I am kinde desprate to find a way of doing this
11-11-2010 09:02 PM
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LANDSHARK Offline
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Post: #18
RE: Installation on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
I have a 2005 Tacoma 4.0L dual Wideband upstream sensors.
3-5 L/M fuel cell working perfect. I purchased a Quad EFIE. I have identified 4 leads from sensor, Blk, Blk which are the Heater and Blue and white, blue being the active lead that I want. I receive 3.3v to ground. I understand you can not use voltage as a reference when your meter is on the terminal block post 3 and 4, however when I do and turn the course pot adjustment 1/4 turn voltage jumps to 4.4vdc. I have no idea what this means, but it is what it is. I broke my active blue lead and installed connector mating lugs to be used as a test point. I placed a Fluke 87 DMM in series to measure current and I am able to view and adjust current levels using this method. According to this posting you are saying I should be adding 5.3ma to the sensor output? There are no obvious idle changes when I make my adjustments. I attempted to hook up a F/A gauge to monitor ratio, but can not get it to work. I do not see a 0-1vdc out. What lead would have this output? I have checked all 4 leads from the sensor and have never seen or received a fluctuating 0-1vdc reading.

Thanks,
Joe[/font]





(01-13-2009 09:38 AM)mike Wrote:  As a note: You can probably set these EFIEs too high without putting the ECU into open loop. Basically, open loop is a safety net, where the ECU is able to see parameters that it doesn't understand, and will then protect itself by ignoring the sensors, and adding more gas.

The reason I stated that you could over lean your engine with these devices is that we have found in our testing so far, that they don't trigger an error in the ECU, causing it to go into open loop.

I'm not trying to be overly cautious. I just want you to understand that you can't use "open loop" or engine codes to determine when the Wide Band EFIE is set too high. Because it doesn't trigger them, even when set too high.

One method we used in the early testing: Let the engine idle with the EFIE pot turned fully counter-clockwise. Then gradually turn the pot clockwise until you hear the engine idle speed lower. Then back it off (counter-clockwise) about a 1/4 turn or so. This should be a pretty safe setting (not too lean). If you drive for a tankful or two and don't get the mileage you are expecting, then add another 1/8 turn clockwise and try again. I wouldn't go any higher than that for an extended period of time.

Let me know if you use this and you find it helpful. I may add some of this to the instructions.
I also got confused by what you meant by "left" and "right". So lets stick with CW (clockwise) and CCW (counter-clockwise).

You should turn your pot all the way CCW to get almost no effect.

You can then turn it slowly CW, with the engine running, until you hear the engine idle speed slow down. Then turn it CCW about 1/4 turn. In other words, you're now going to back it off about 1/4 turn. This should be a pretty good setting for you.
03-05-2012 07:39 AM
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LittleGreenDot Offline
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Post: #19
RE: Installation on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
If you have wide band sensors you will not see the fluctuating voltage. Wide band sensors use a fixed voltage and a varying amperage signal.
10-18-2012 08:20 AM
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4Runner76 Offline
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Post: #20
RE: Installation on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
I have a 1999 Toyota 4Runner with a 3.4L V6 engineā€¦ it uses one wide-band O2 sensor upstream of the catalytic converter and another one downstream. However the catalytic converter was removed and the car is running without it (a steel coupling tube was welded in its place). I am thinking that once an HHO generator is installed, there may not be a need for a catalytic converter.

I have the dual-wide band EFIE and would like to ask two questions regarding this configuration:

1. Is it possible to configure the EFIE to "trick" the downstream sensor into believing that there is still a catalytic converter? If so, how would you recommend that I adjust it?

2. If I install the EFIE inside the car, does the length of the cable from the O2 sensor to the EFIE affect the way it works in any way?
11-01-2012 06:12 PM
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