I had a homemade water4gas setup and your duel efie deluxe on my 2004 nissan titan. I got a little better gas mileage.

I took out that setup and today installed the smackbooster gen IV and your wideband efie. I connected the wire to the 3.1 volt afr wires. I can lug down the motor at only a 1/4 turn clockwise is that normal? The smackbooster gen IV is producing around 2 liters per minute at about 20 amps.

Yes, that is very normal. With the WB efie it's possible to make the vehicle undriveable, if you crank it too high.

When that happens (in your case 1/4 turn), in part depends on your LPM. Have you checked your output and leaks (by brushing soapy water on the connections)? I assume your 2 LPM is the rated output, not your actual output.

Actually the first batch of EFIEs we produced were just too strong. They added a maximum of 5 milliamps of current when the pot was turned all the way clockwise. We have since found that this is too much. Everyone was down around 1/4 turn or less.

We have since made a change so that the max output from our Wide Band EFIE is only 3 milliamps. This makes it easier to adjust. We may reduce it further, because we've not hear of anyone going over 1/2 turn, even on the new ones.

So, that's the long story. Cochiro was correct. It's quite normal for you to be lugging the engine at only 1/4 turn.

I too have a nissan titan and I have some questions on what wire to use. My sensors appear to be bosch 17204 on each side. I have a red, yellow, grey, white, and black wire. I am on the red now. I can turn the pot and get it to almost die. I back it down to a quarter turn. I keep getting a SES light, code p1283 IPR circuit failure. Just not able to get the right adjustment. Not absolutely sure on the wire either. Any advice? Thanks. . .. Josh

Hi Josh.

Do you have a way to clear the codes? Unless you clear the code they don't usually go away on their own. Many auto parts stores will do that for free, but call to confirm first.

Can you clear it and turn the efie all the way to full CCW and see if the code stays cleared?

You can fill out the Sensor Request form (on my documents link) to request the wire color you need.

Rick,
I am able to clear the p1283 code. It keeps coming back on. I have a program on my laptop that I can read and clear codes. I can also watch the voltages of the o2 sensors. The front sensors don't appear to respond to the adjustments, but the rear sensors do change. They drop the most. I can adjust the pot until the engine begins to run rough, then turn it back to good idle. The vehicle runs fine, minus the codes. I do have to ask what is full CCW? I apoligze for not knowing. Thanks for the response. . .. Josh

CCW= counter-clockwise, in other words, turn it all the way down to zero.

It's possible the fronts won't change. You don't cut the wires like the normal efie so you don't have a sensor side and ecu side to check anything so all you can do is read the ecu side, which will always be normal on any efie.

In other words, the ecu always wants to see normal and will try to adjust it that way. You're reading what the ecu sees.

Try turning it all the way down and see if that works.

It's not good to run it w/o some kind of fuel enhancer, you running hho? Details?

Thanks for that. I will turn it down all the way and see if the codes don't reappear. I am not running any fuel enhancer, or hho. My attempt was to lean it up a little. I will get back to you and see if the code stays off. Thanks. .. Josh

If you haven't modified the engine except for the efie, you can expect you'll be running it very close to "0" on the adjustment.

When you turn it up and your mileage drops or you experience a loss of power, you've gone too lean.

I am having better success now that I have the right wire. I have bosch sensors, 5 wire. Red, black, white, grey, and yellow. In my testing, I found out that the red and the black have almost the same voltage as I was looking for, so I misidentified it. To test my theory, I cut the black wire. I then had no voltage readings going to the ecu, according to the computer program. So I am pretty sure I cut the current return wire. I soldered it back together and added in the wire going to the fuel saver device. I could turn it up a little over a quarter turn and see the rear o2 sensors leaning up. Before that, I had used the red wire, and got SES codes. I seem to be in good shape with the least suspecting black wire as the current return. . . . Josh