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gtkco Offline
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Post: #41
RE: Post Your Results
Scorp76 Wrote:2005 Ford Escape
3.0L 6cyl 4wd.
Pre HHO avg was 17-21mpg.

Post HHO avg shows 27-30

Congrats! Pretty slick looking system. Remember to check your spark plugs after one tank of gas and 3000 miles for over heating. We can't relie on cel lights as shown by Cantburn frying his engine.
09-17-2008 08:00 AM
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Static HHO Offline
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Post: #42
RE: Post Your Results
1. 1996 Chevy P/U 5.7L V8 230,000 miles
2. 5N6 Closed, Dry WFC - 23 Amps, 2.3 L/M
3. Dual EFIEs set at 240 mV.
4. 33% in Hwy MPG, 25% in city MPG

HHO-ing 'n Brewin' in N. GA
09-17-2008 08:15 AM
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cheapfuel Offline
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Post: #43
RE: Post Your Results
OXY-HYDROGEN GENERATION RESULTS:
VEHICLE: 1994 Chev Silverado 4x4 5.7 V8 Truck (regular fuel)

OXY-HYDROGEN SYSTEM: 3 homebuilt generators connected in series.

Plate configuration: +n-n+n- four 1/8" x 2.5" Circular stainless steel active plates & three 1/16" x 2.5" circular stainless steel neutral separation plates. Six gaps = 1/8" per gap (approx.) housed in black PVC Piping

ELECTROLYTIC SOLUTION: NaOH + distilled/rain H2O adjusted to 1.6 volts per generator

Hydrogen/oxygen production:. HHO production at 700 ml/min – 1L/min

SYSTEM AMPERAGE DRAW: 5 amps cool – 10 amps hot on 12 volt system

GENERATOR HEAT: 55 deg. C (130 deg F) after 30 minutes of operation

EFIE OFF SET VOLTAGE: 0.200 – 0.220 volts

PRE-INSTALLATION MPG: 15.45 MPG (imperial)

AFTER-INSTALLATION MPG: 15.82 MPG (imperial)

% MPG GAIN/FUEL SAVINGS: 2.49% (negligible)

GENERAL COMMENTS: Engine runs a little rough before "warm-up" due to the EFIE setting causing a leaner gas/air mix. Engine warms up more quickly than at pre-installation and increases in excess of normal temperature for one or two minutes but then returns to normal operating temperature when the coolant thermostat adjusts. Engine runs smoother and quieter after warm-up then before pre-installation. Also more power at slower speeds, but not at higher speeds. Driving is 75% on country roads including gravel and steep hills; mostly at 80 km/h. were possible (100 km/h on HWY). Expected to run cleaner due to more efficient fuel burn. Electrolyte remains clear. Water from the bubbler gets sucked back into the generators due to atmospheric pressure after cooling of generators and standing without use. It is pushed back into the bubbler provided the generators were full on start-up. Hence the bubbler ends up with electrolyte instead of pure H2O. This is OK as long as the bubbler is not allowed to over-fill by adding too much H2O to the system. Amber warning light to "service engine soon" came on only once in Over 200 km and stayed on only 15 seconds. This was not a great improvement. The power was lacking at higher speeds. Adjusted the EFIE to 0.14 volts. Immediately there was a notable improvement in engine operation and power. Will now drive at this new setting. An MPG improvement is expected based on the driving so far. Truck is used only 6 months of the year…so cold weather not a problem. System is drained and clean at the end of the season and replaced With a new electrolyte solution the following season.
09-19-2008 04:09 PM
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Static HHO Offline
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Post: #44
RE: Post Your Results
cheapfuel Wrote:OXY-HYDROGEN GENERATION RESULTS:
VEHICLE: 1994 Chev Silverado 4x4 5.7 V8 Truck (regular fuel)

OXY-HYDROGEN SYSTEM: 3 homebuilt generators connected in series.

Plate configuration: +n-n+n- four 1/8" x 2.5" Circular stainless steel active plates & three 1/16" x 2.5" circular stainless steel neutral separation plates. Six gaps = 1/8" per gap (approx.) housed in black PVC Piping

ELECTROLYTIC SOLUTION: NaOH + distilled/rain H2O adjusted to 1.6 volts per generator

Hydrogen/oxygen production:. HHO production at 700 ml/min – 1L/min

SYSTEM AMPERAGE DRAW: 5 amps cool – 10 amps hot on 12 volt system

GENERATOR HEAT: 55 deg. C (130 deg F) after 30 minutes of operation

EFIE OFF SET VOLTAGE: 0.200 – 0.220 volts

PRE-INSTALLATION MPG: 15.45 MPG (imperial)

AFTER-INSTALLATION MPG: 15.82 MPG (imperial)

% MPG GAIN/FUEL SAVINGS: 2.49% (negligible)

GENERAL COMMENTS: Engine runs a little rough before "warm-up" due to the EFIE setting causing a leaner gas/air mix. Engine warms up more quickly than at pre-installation and increases in excess of normal temperature for one or two minutes but then returns to normal operating temperature when the coolant thermostat adjusts. Engine runs smoother and quieter after warm-up then before pre-installation. Also more power at slower speeds, but not at higher speeds. Driving is 75% on country roads including gravel and steep hills; mostly at 80 km/h. were possible (100 km/h on HWY). Expected to run cleaner due to more efficient fuel burn. Electrolyte remains clear. Water from the bubbler gets sucked back into the generators due to atmospheric pressure after cooling of generators and standing without use. It is pushed back into the bubbler provided the generators were full on start-up. Hence the bubbler ends up with electrolyte instead of pure H2O. This is OK as long as the bubbler is not allowed to over-fill by adding too much H2O to the system. Amber warning light to "service engine soon" came on only once in Over 200 km and stayed on only 15 seconds. This was not a great improvement. The power was lacking at higher speeds. Adjusted the EFIE to 0.14 volts. Immediately there was a notable improvement in engine operation and power. Will now drive at this new setting. An MPG improvement is expected based on the driving so far. Truck is used only 6 months of the year…so cold weather not a problem. System is drained and clean at the end of the season and replaced With a new electrolyte solution the following season.


Good data you've posted. I'm familar with your engine. I have one in my '99 and my buddy has the same in his '96. He's posting a 33% increase on his ole beater. In his truck we've got our large, closed WFC set up to run at 25 amps producing 2.1 L/M. We're thinking this might be the max gas the 5.7 L will use without a timing issue. His EFIE's are set at 220 mV. My truck still has our small prototype WFC that doing OK at 1.1 L/M. This is really not enough hydroxy to boost MPG/Power too much. We think the 5.7 could use 2 - 2.5 L/M but not too much more. Our large WFC will crank up to 6 L/M; way too much, so we're aiming this unit at big diesel trucks. Also, there is no heat issue 'cause this cell doesn't waste edge current; like the stacks in a bath do. keep on HHO-ing

HHO-ing 'n Brewin' in N. GA
09-20-2008 06:07 PM
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cheapfuel Offline
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Post: #45
RE: Post Your Results
Static HHO Wrote:
cheapfuel Wrote:OXY-HYDROGEN GENERATION RESULTS:
VEHICLE: 1994 Chev Silverado 4x4 5.7 V8 Truck (regular fuel)

OXY-HYDROGEN SYSTEM: 3 homebuilt generators connected in series.

Plate configuration: +n-n+n- four 1/8" x 2.5" Circular stainless steel active plates & three 1/16" x 2.5" circular stainless steel neutral separation plates. Six gaps = 1/8" per gap (approx.) housed in black PVC Piping

ELECTROLYTIC SOLUTION: NaOH + distilled/rain H2O adjusted to 1.6 volts per generator

Hydrogen/oxygen production:. HHO production at 700 ml/min – 1L/min

SYSTEM AMPERAGE DRAW: 5 amps cool – 10 amps hot on 12 volt system

GENERATOR HEAT: 55 deg. C (130 deg F) after 30 minutes of operation

EFIE OFF SET VOLTAGE: 0.200 – 0.220 volts

PRE-INSTALLATION MPG: 15.45 MPG (imperial)

AFTER-INSTALLATION MPG: 15.82 MPG (imperial)

% MPG GAIN/FUEL SAVINGS: 2.49% (negligible)

GENERAL COMMENTS: Engine runs a little rough before "warm-up" due to the EFIE setting causing a leaner gas/air mix. Engine warms up more quickly than at pre-installation and increases in excess of normal temperature for one or two minutes but then returns to normal operating temperature when the coolant thermostat adjusts. Engine runs smoother and quieter after warm-up then before pre-installation. Also more power at slower speeds, but not at higher speeds. Driving is 75% on country roads including gravel and steep hills; mostly at 80 km/h. were possible (100 km/h on HWY). Expected to run cleaner due to more efficient fuel burn. Electrolyte remains clear. Water from the bubbler gets sucked back into the generators due to atmospheric pressure after cooling of generators and standing without use. It is pushed back into the bubbler provided the generators were full on start-up. Hence the bubbler ends up with electrolyte instead of pure H2O. This is OK as long as the bubbler is not allowed to over-fill by adding too much H2O to the system. Amber warning light to "service engine soon" came on only once in Over 200 km and stayed on only 15 seconds. This was not a great improvement. The power was lacking at higher speeds. Adjusted the EFIE to 0.14 volts. Immediately there was a notable improvement in engine operation and power. Will now drive at this new setting. An MPG improvement is expected based on the driving so far. Truck is used only 6 months of the year…so cold weather not a problem. System is drained and clean at the end of the season and replaced With a new electrolyte solution the following season.


Good data you've posted. I'm familar with your engine. I have one in my '99 and my buddy has the same in his '96. He's posting a 33% increase on his ole beater. In his truck we've got our large, closed WFC set up to run at 25 amps producing 2.1 L/M. We're thinking this might be the max gas the 5.7 L will use without a timing issue. His EFIE's are set at 220 mV. My truck still has our small prototype WFC that doing OK at 1.1 L/M. This is really not enough hydroxy to boost MPG/Power too much. We think the 5.7 could use 2 - 2.5 L/M but not too much more. Our large WFC will crank up to 6 L/M; way too much, so we're aiming this unit at big diesel trucks. Also, there is no heat issue 'cause this cell doesn't waste edge current; like the stacks in a bath do. keep on HHO-ing

Static HHO...Thank you very much for your information. It is very helpful. I have been trying to get the kind of information that you gave in your reply. I had my EFIE set at 0.220 as you probably noticed. I did increase the NaOH concentration by adding another 1/2 teaspoon of Na0H to each generator. I noticed that the terminal voltage accross each generator terminal is now 1.57 volts. The production increased some. I was wondering about the HHO production and my mental calculations did make me suspicious that my production for the 5.7 liter engine was not high enough. In lieu of what you just stated I think I can bring the production up more, may be so that the terminal voltages across the generators is about 1.8 volts. Since my volume in the generator is reasonably large and the temperature reached only 55 deg.C (130 deg.F), I feel safe in doing this. I will leave the EFIE at 0.140 volts for now, but may raise it back to 0.220 volts later because of what you said. I do not have a MAP enhancer; just an EFIE. I should be able to get over 1L/min and draw maybe 15 amps (max). Anyway, that is what I am going to shoot for. Thanks again Static HHO.
09-20-2008 09:25 PM
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Gregg Offline
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Post: #46
RE: Post Your Results
cheapfuel Wrote:An important piece of detail to give in this thread is how much HHO (ml/min) is the system producing. I look all over this site for this kind of information as it is my major concern right now. With one system I have I get about 480 ml/min at 30 amps. when I reduce the concentration of NaOH to 15 amp draw. I get 250 ml/min. I would like to know connecting closed system cell together affect amps, HHO production and voltage. Why not make HHO production yield one of the reporting items?

Hello cheapfuel
Its sound like your cell doesnt run very efficiently.
I built a small hho cell for my 1986 Honda vf 700 magna that puts out 700 ml/min @ 11 amp. and my millage went from 45 to 55.5 MPG,
and it doesnt over heat, 80% of my driving is city driving.
My cell for my truck runs at 1.4 liters per min. @ 25 amps. not sure on millage yet.

Gregg
09-21-2008 06:25 AM
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Static HHO Offline
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Post: #47
RE: Post Your Results
cheapfuel Wrote:
Static HHO Wrote:
cheapfuel Wrote:OXY-HYDROGEN GENERATION RESULTS:
VEHICLE: 1994 Chev Silverado 4x4 5.7 V8 Truck (regular fuel)

OXY-HYDROGEN SYSTEM: 3 homebuilt generators connected in series.

Plate configuration: +n-n+n- four 1/8" x 2.5" Circular stainless steel active plates & three 1/16" x 2.5" circular stainless steel neutral separation plates. Six gaps = 1/8" per gap (approx.) housed in black PVC Piping

ELECTROLYTIC SOLUTION: NaOH + distilled/rain H2O adjusted to 1.6 volts per generator

Hydrogen/oxygen production:. HHO production at 700 ml/min – 1L/min

SYSTEM AMPERAGE DRAW: 5 amps cool – 10 amps hot on 12 volt system

GENERATOR HEAT: 55 deg. C (130 deg F) after 30 minutes of operation

EFIE OFF SET VOLTAGE: 0.200 – 0.220 volts

PRE-INSTALLATION MPG: 15.45 MPG (imperial)

AFTER-INSTALLATION MPG: 15.82 MPG (imperial)

% MPG GAIN/FUEL SAVINGS: 2.49% (negligible)

GENERAL COMMENTS: Engine runs a little rough before "warm-up" due to the EFIE setting causing a leaner gas/air mix. Engine warms up more quickly than at pre-installation and increases in excess of normal temperature for one or two minutes but then returns to normal operating temperature when the coolant thermostat adjusts. Engine runs smoother and quieter after warm-up then before pre-installation. Also more power at slower speeds, but not at higher speeds. Driving is 75% on country roads including gravel and steep hills; mostly at 80 km/h. were possible (100 km/h on HWY). Expected to run cleaner due to more efficient fuel burn. Electrolyte remains clear. Water from the bubbler gets sucked back into the generators due to atmospheric pressure after cooling of generators and standing without use. It is pushed back into the bubbler provided the generators were full on start-up. Hence the bubbler ends up with electrolyte instead of pure H2O. This is OK as long as the bubbler is not allowed to over-fill by adding too much H2O to the system. Amber warning light to "service engine soon" came on only once in Over 200 km and stayed on only 15 seconds. This was not a great improvement. The power was lacking at higher speeds. Adjusted the EFIE to 0.14 volts. Immediately there was a notable improvement in engine operation and power. Will now drive at this new setting. An MPG improvement is expected based on the driving so far. Truck is used only 6 months of the year…so cold weather not a problem. System is drained and clean at the end of the season and replaced With a new electrolyte solution the following season.


Good data you've posted. I'm familar with your engine. I have one in my '99 and my buddy has the same in his '96. He's posting a 33% increase on his ole beater. In his truck we've got our large, closed WFC set up to run at 25 amps producing 2.1 L/M. We're thinking this might be the max gas the 5.7 L will use without a timing issue. His EFIE's are set at 220 mV. My truck still has our small prototype WFC that doing OK at 1.1 L/M. This is really not enough hydroxy to boost MPG/Power too much. We think the 5.7 could use 2 - 2.5 L/M but not too much more. Our large WFC will crank up to 6 L/M; way too much, so we're aiming this unit at big diesel trucks. Also, there is no heat issue 'cause this cell doesn't waste edge current; like the stacks in a bath do. keep on HHO-ing

Static HHO...Thank you very much for your information. It is very helpful. I have been trying to get the kind of information that you gave in your reply. I had my EFIE set at 0.220 as you probably noticed. I did increase the NaOH concentration by adding another 1/2 teaspoon of Na0H to each generator. I noticed that the terminal voltage accross each generator terminal is now 1.57 volts. The production increased some. I was wondering about the HHO production and my mental calculations did make me suspicious that my production for the 5.7 liter engine was not high enough. In lieu of what you just stated I think I can bring the production up more, may be so that the terminal voltages across the generators is about 1.8 volts. Since my volume in the generator is reasonably large and the temperature reached only 55 deg.C (130 deg.F), I feel safe in doing this. I will leave the EFIE at 0.140 volts for now, but may raise it back to 0.220 volts later because of what you said. I do not have a MAP enhancer; just an EFIE. I should be able to get over 1L/min and draw maybe 15 amps (max). Anyway, that is what I am going to shoot for. Thanks again Static HHO.

Are you measuring your voltage across each plate pair's air gap. Ideally this voltage should be between 2.2 and 2.4 vdc. If it's higher, you're starting to overdrive the WFC. This leads to leaching of ferrous metals out of the plates and into solution. Always check air gap voltage on a new WFC so you know it's designed correctly. Cheers

HHO-ing 'n Brewin' in N. GA
09-21-2008 10:06 AM
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cheapfuel Offline
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Post: #48
RE: Post Your Results
Static HHO Wrote:
cheapfuel Wrote:
Static HHO Wrote:
cheapfuel Wrote:OXY-HYDROGEN GENERATION RESULTS:
VEHICLE: 1994 Chev Silverado 4x4 5.7 V8 Truck (regular fuel)

OXY-HYDROGEN SYSTEM: 3 homebuilt generators connected in series.

Plate configuration: +n-n+n- four 1/8" x 2.5" Circular stainless steel active plates & three 1/16" x 2.5" circular stainless steel neutral separation plates. Six gaps = 1/8" per gap (approx.) housed in black PVC Piping

ELECTROLYTIC SOLUTION: NaOH + distilled/rain H2O adjusted to 1.6 volts per generator

Hydrogen/oxygen production:. HHO production at 700 ml/min – 1L/min

SYSTEM AMPERAGE DRAW: 5 amps cool – 10 amps hot on 12 volt system

GENERATOR HEAT: 55 deg. C (130 deg F) after 30 minutes of operation

EFIE OFF SET VOLTAGE: 0.200 – 0.220 volts

PRE-INSTALLATION MPG: 15.45 MPG (imperial)

AFTER-INSTALLATION MPG: 15.82 MPG (imperial)

% MPG GAIN/FUEL SAVINGS: 2.49% (negligible)

GENERAL COMMENTS: Engine runs a little rough before "warm-up" due to the EFIE setting causing a leaner gas/air mix. Engine warms up more quickly than at pre-installation and increases in excess of normal temperature for one or two minutes but then returns to normal operating temperature when the coolant thermostat adjusts. Engine runs smoother and quieter after warm-up then before pre-installation. Also more power at slower speeds, but not at higher speeds. Driving is 75% on country roads including gravel and steep hills; mostly at 80 km/h. were possible (100 km/h on HWY). Expected to run cleaner due to more efficient fuel burn. Electrolyte remains clear. Water from the bubbler gets sucked back into the generators due to atmospheric pressure after cooling of generators and standing without use. It is pushed back into the bubbler provided the generators were full on start-up. Hence the bubbler ends up with electrolyte instead of pure H2O. This is OK as long as the bubbler is not allowed to over-fill by adding too much H2O to the system. Amber warning light to "service engine soon" came on only once in Over 200 km and stayed on only 15 seconds. This was not a great improvement. The power was lacking at higher speeds. Adjusted the EFIE to 0.14 volts. Immediately there was a notable improvement in engine operation and power. Will now drive at this new setting. An MPG improvement is expected based on the driving so far. Truck is used only 6 months of the year…so cold weather not a problem. System is drained and clean at the end of the season and replaced With a new electrolyte solution the following season.


Good data you've posted. I'm familar with your engine. I have one in my '99 and my buddy has the same in his '96. He's posting a 33% increase on his ole beater. In his truck we've got our large, closed WFC set up to run at 25 amps producing 2.1 L/M. We're thinking this might be the max gas the 5.7 L will use without a timing issue. His EFIE's are set at 220 mV. My truck still has our small prototype WFC that doing OK at 1.1 L/M. This is really not enough hydroxy to boost MPG/Power too much. We think the 5.7 could use 2 - 2.5 L/M but not too much more. Our large WFC will crank up to 6 L/M; way too much, so we're aiming this unit at big diesel trucks. Also, there is no heat issue 'cause this cell doesn't waste edge current; like the stacks in a bath do. keep on HHO-ing

Static HHO...Thank you very much for your information. It is very helpful. I have been trying to get the kind of information that you gave in your reply. I had my EFIE set at 0.220 as you probably noticed. I did increase the NaOH concentration by adding another 1/2 teaspoon of Na0H to each generator. I noticed that the terminal voltage accross each generator terminal is now 1.57 volts. The production increased some. I was wondering about the HHO production and my mental calculations did make me suspicious that my production for the 5.7 liter engine was not high enough. In lieu of what you just stated I think I can bring the production up more, may be so that the terminal voltages across the generators is about 1.8 volts. Since my volume in the generator is reasonably large and the temperature reached only 55 deg.C (130 deg.F), I feel safe in doing this. I will leave the EFIE at 0.140 volts for now, but may raise it back to 0.220 volts later because of what you said. I do not have a MAP enhancer; just an EFIE. I should be able to get over 1L/min and draw maybe 15 amps (max). Anyway, that is what I am going to shoot for. Thanks again Static HHO.

Are you measuring your voltage across each plate pair's air gap. Ideally this voltage should be between 2.2 and 2.4 vdc. If it's higher, you're starting to overdrive the WFC. This leads to leaching of ferrous metals out of the plates and into solution. Always check air gap voltage on a new WFC so you know it's designed correctly. Cheers

I am measuring across the terminals of each generator. Each generator has 6 gaps (+n-n+n-) closed system. I calculate this 12/6 = 2 volts (includes the gaps between neutrals and active plates ) per generator. If you measure the generator with the ground then each generator drops 12/3 volts ie 4+ volts on the 12 volt system. I have 3 such generators connected in series. I pumped out the electrolyte and flushed it out. I then added new distilled water and 12 teaspoons of NaOH per generator. Now instead of drawing 5-10 amps, I am drawing 15 amps. I can go a little higher....say 20 amps by adding more NaOH, but at this time prefer not to.The EFIE is set at 0.15 vollts. I do get higher production. I have not measured this new production. Just guessing it must be close to 1L/min. I will drive to town and fill up at my same pump as always and set my odometer to 0.00. Back to the voltage. It is about 1.6 volts (taken when system is hot and has been turned off. This voltage slowly drains over a short period of time as it is an electolyte voltage). I will post my results here when I have them. I appreciate all the feed back I am getting. It does help me.
(This post was last modified: 09-21-2008 03:54 PM by cheapfuel.)
09-21-2008 02:59 PM
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jaded13 Offline
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Post: #49
RE: Post Your Results
2001 Saturn 5 speed 1.9 L
62580 miles
dual map enhancer ( city / hwy )
15 plate ss hho generator
Scan gauge for readings
Hypermile every chance like 38 psi in tires /coast whenever possible etc
used to get 30 MPG in city stock... now avg over 60 MPG... hard to belive but the scan gauge does not lie
(This post was last modified: 10-03-2008 07:44 AM by jaded13.)
10-02-2008 01:51 PM
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Static HHO Offline
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Post: #50
RE: Post Your Results
cheapfuel Wrote:
Static HHO Wrote:
cheapfuel Wrote:
Static HHO Wrote:
cheapfuel Wrote:OXY-HYDROGEN GENERATION RESULTS:
VEHICLE: 1994 Chev Silverado 4x4 5.7 V8 Truck (regular fuel)

OXY-HYDROGEN SYSTEM: 3 homebuilt generators connected in series.

Plate configuration: +n-n+n- four 1/8" x 2.5" Circular stainless steel active plates & three 1/16" x 2.5" circular stainless steel neutral separation plates. Six gaps = 1/8" per gap (approx.) housed in black PVC Piping

ELECTROLYTIC SOLUTION: NaOH + distilled/rain H2O adjusted to 1.6 volts per generator

Hydrogen/oxygen production:. HHO production at 700 ml/min – 1L/min

SYSTEM AMPERAGE DRAW: 5 amps cool – 10 amps hot on 12 volt system

GENERATOR HEAT: 55 deg. C (130 deg F) after 30 minutes of operation

EFIE OFF SET VOLTAGE: 0.200 – 0.220 volts

PRE-INSTALLATION MPG: 15.45 MPG (imperial)

AFTER-INSTALLATION MPG: 15.82 MPG (imperial)

% MPG GAIN/FUEL SAVINGS: 2.49% (negligible)

GENERAL COMMENTS: Engine runs a little rough before "warm-up" due to the EFIE setting causing a leaner gas/air mix. Engine warms up more quickly than at pre-installation and increases in excess of normal temperature for one or two minutes but then returns to normal operating temperature when the coolant thermostat adjusts. Engine runs smoother and quieter after warm-up then before pre-installation. Also more power at slower speeds, but not at higher speeds. Driving is 75% on country roads including gravel and steep hills; mostly at 80 km/h. were possible (100 km/h on HWY). Expected to run cleaner due to more efficient fuel burn. Electrolyte remains clear. Water from the bubbler gets sucked back into the generators due to atmospheric pressure after cooling of generators and standing without use. It is pushed back into the bubbler provided the generators were full on start-up. Hence the bubbler ends up with electrolyte instead of pure H2O. This is OK as long as the bubbler is not allowed to over-fill by adding too much H2O to the system. Amber warning light to "service engine soon" came on only once in Over 200 km and stayed on only 15 seconds. This was not a great improvement. The power was lacking at higher speeds. Adjusted the EFIE to 0.14 volts. Immediately there was a notable improvement in engine operation and power. Will now drive at this new setting. An MPG improvement is expected based on the driving so far. Truck is used only 6 months of the year…so cold weather not a problem. System is drained and clean at the end of the season and replaced With a new electrolyte solution the following season.


Good data you've posted. I'm familar with your engine. I have one in my '99 and my buddy has the same in his '96. He's posting a 33% increase on his ole beater. In his truck we've got our large, closed WFC set up to run at 25 amps producing 2.1 L/M. We're thinking this might be the max gas the 5.7 L will use without a timing issue. His EFIE's are set at 220 mV. My truck still has our small prototype WFC that doing OK at 1.1 L/M. This is really not enough hydroxy to boost MPG/Power too much. We think the 5.7 could use 2 - 2.5 L/M but not too much more. Our large WFC will crank up to 6 L/M; way too much, so we're aiming this unit at big diesel trucks. Also, there is no heat issue 'cause this cell doesn't waste edge current; like the stacks in a bath do. keep on HHO-ing

Static HHO...Thank you very much for your information. It is very helpful. I have been trying to get the kind of information that you gave in your reply. I had my EFIE set at 0.220 as you probably noticed. I did increase the NaOH concentration by adding another 1/2 teaspoon of Na0H to each generator. I noticed that the terminal voltage accross each generator terminal is now 1.57 volts. The production increased some. I was wondering about the HHO production and my mental calculations did make me suspicious that my production for the 5.7 liter engine was not high enough. In lieu of what you just stated I think I can bring the production up more, may be so that the terminal voltages across the generators is about 1.8 volts. Since my volume in the generator is reasonably large and the temperature reached only 55 deg.C (130 deg.F), I feel safe in doing this. I will leave the EFIE at 0.140 volts for now, but may raise it back to 0.220 volts later because of what you said. I do not have a MAP enhancer; just an EFIE. I should be able to get over 1L/min and draw maybe 15 amps (max). Anyway, that is what I am going to shoot for. Thanks again Static HHO.

Are you measuring your voltage across each plate pair's air gap. Ideally this voltage should be between 2.2 and 2.4 vdc. If it's higher, you're starting to overdrive the WFC. This leads to leaching of ferrous metals out of the plates and into solution. Always check air gap voltage on a new WFC so you know it's designed correctly. Cheers

I am measuring across the terminals of each generator. Each generator has 6 gaps (+n-n+n-) closed system. I calculate this 12/6 = 2 volts (includes the gaps between neutrals and active plates ) per generator. If you measure the generator with the ground then each generator drops 12/3 volts ie 4+ volts on the 12 volt system. I have 3 such generators connected in series. I pumped out the electrolyte and flushed it out. I then added new distilled water and 12 teaspoons of NaOH per generator. Now instead of drawing 5-10 amps, I am drawing 15 amps. I can go a little higher....say 20 amps by adding more NaOH, but at this time prefer not to.The EFIE is set at 0.15 vollts. I do get higher production. I have not measured this new production. Just guessing it must be close to 1L/min. I will drive to town and fill up at my same pump as always and set my odometer to 0.00. Back to the voltage. It is about 1.6 volts (taken when system is hot and has been turned off. This voltage slowly drains over a short period of time as it is an electolyte voltage). I will post my results here when I have them. I appreciate all the feed back I am getting. It does help me.
After all the research we've done and all the WFC we've built and all the uTube vids we've watched, some things become constant to us. Air gap voltage: should be between 2.3 and 2.4 using the total voltage input from your car's system; not just a calculated or estimated number. Too high a voltage between two plates and you overdrive the cell. Too little voltage indicates the cell is not producing is maximum potential. You can calculate your HHO system efficiency using the following:
1st – Calculate your wattage used by: measure the volts going to WFC. Multiply this number by the total amps drawn by the WFC. Example. 13.5 volts are measured at the WFC and the WFC is drawing 25 amps. This example gives you 337.5 watts
2nd - You must measure the production of the WFC either using a flow meter (not too good because they steam- up or fog-up and give false readings) or by building a simple flow meter using PET bottles and timing the production rate.
3rd – Divide the flow rate by the wattage. Example: Say your measuring a flow rate at a repeatable rate of 2.0 liter/min or 2000. Divide 337.5 into 2000 = 5.925 mlw (milliliters of gas per watt). This 5.9 mlw is a fairly good efficiency rate for a WFC . The higher the rating, the more efficient the WFC.
What I see as a disadvantage in your system is your WFC design. Your type, along with many being built both by mfg and by guys like you, are stacks of plates in a bath of electrolyte. Been there, done that…makes a lot of heat. All your plates, in this bath, are leaking current (edge current) around the gaps and skipping plates. What we want is to have all the available current passing directly between the plates. Your type, instead of producing only gas, the edge current is producing extra heat and drawing extra current. This creates heat, draws more current, per liter of gas produced, and just makes the WFC less effective.
Advise you not to be too concerned about tsp of NaOH or KOH per liter of distilled water. What’s important is the current draw maximum compared to what you think your car’s alternator can spare. I believe my ’99 GMC can handle up to 50 amps, without loading the alternator too much.
I just made a few tweaks to my 5.7 L engine. The production rate is now at 2.5 l/m and the Efie’s are set at 330 mlv, for each O2 sensor. This is a 9200 lbs pick-up truck; empty. I started at 13.7 MPG and my last mileage rate was 22.3 MPG. That’s a 62.7% increase. We’re looking for more!
The more hydroxyl gas that is input to the engine, the more the Efie milivolts are needed to handle the expected higher O2 levels the sensors might read. If high levels of oxygen are passing the O2 sensor, those sensors will send the ECU a lower mili volt signal. You have to crank up the mlv using your efie’s to prevent the ECU going into a open loop status. You won’t always get a CEL at this point. Some vehicles go many miles before the CEL comes on. Remember, the ECU is IN open loop when you first start the car when it’s cold ( no CEL is on, right?). This allows a rich mixture for cold start-ups; kinda like an automatic choke. I hope some of this helps.

HHO-ing 'n Brewin' in N. GA
10-03-2008 05:17 AM
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