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TOWER CRACKED - too much heat or too much pressure?
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breakz funky beats Offline
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TOWER CRACKED - too much heat or too much pressure?
Hi,

OK I was just going to add some water when I notice that the tower cracked in top holes where the wire electrodes are tide to the lid. I am wondering if this was caused by the heat (around 150f) or by the pressure from electrodes tide to the lid? Confused
Any ideas...?


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'97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 6v/4.0l/4x4
(This post was last modified: 08-31-2008 02:32 PM by breakz funky beats.)
08-31-2008 02:31 PM
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Coolwhip Offline
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Post: #2
RE: TOWER CRACKED - too much heat or too much pressure?
breakz funky beats Wrote:Hi,

OK I was just going to add some water when I notice that the tower cracked in top holes where the wire electrodes are tide to the lid. I am wondering if this was caused by the heat (around 150f) or by the pressure from electrodes tide to the lid? Confused
Any ideas...?

What kind of material did you use for your tower. I had simular problems with gas4free system. I used 1/2" thick lexan. I had problems when I used sodium hydroxide. The plan called for hydrogine peroxide,salt, and distilled water. Just a thought.
08-31-2008 03:32 PM
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colchiro Offline
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Post: #3
RE: TOWER CRACKED - too much heat or too much pressure?
What do the directions say, to run at about 7 amps? How much current were you running?

That's what happens when you use SS wire and run too much current thru it, creating heat and melting the tower and eventually shorting out. I wish they'd change their dangerous design. To get decent output, you need more surface area and neutral plates (preferable a sealed design).

If you want to create boiling water, keep using this design. Hmm

Rick

Links: Documents / Tuning for Mileage | Toyota Sensors | Autoshop Sensor Tutorials
08-31-2008 03:46 PM
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breakz funky beats Offline
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Post: #4
RE: TOWER CRACKED - too much heat or too much pressure?
Coolwhip Wrote:
breakz funky beats Wrote:Hi,

OK I was just going to add some water when I notice that the tower cracked in top holes where the wire electrodes are tide to the lid. I am wondering if this was caused by the heat (around 150f) or by the pressure from electrodes tide to the lid? Confused
Any ideas...?

What kind of material did you use for your tower. I had simular problems with gas4free system. I used 1/2" thick lexan. I had problems when I used sodium hydroxide. The plan called for hydrogine peroxide,salt, and distilled water. Just a thought.

I bought this tower on ebay here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WATER4GAS...enameZWDVW

'97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 6v/4.0l/4x4
08-31-2008 04:10 PM
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breakz funky beats Offline
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Post: #5
RE: TOWER CRACKED - too much heat or too much pressure?
colchiro Wrote:What do the directions say, to run at about 7 amps? How much current were you running?

That's what happens when you use SS wire and run too much current thru it, creating heat and melting the tower and eventually shorting out. I wish they'd change their dangerous design. To get decent output, you need more surface area and neutral plates (preferable a sealed design).

If you want to create boiling water, keep using this design. Hmm

To be perfectly honest I don't know how much amps did I have since I never got to test it since I didn't know how Gasp

I only tested for voltage and I had 10.35 when + and - touched to the jar's connectors and I had 10.80 volts when I touched - to the ground.

'97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 6v/4.0l/4x4
08-31-2008 04:12 PM
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colchiro Offline
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Post: #6
RE: TOWER CRACKED - too much heat or too much pressure?
breakz funky beats Wrote:To be perfectly honest I don't know how much amps did I have since I never got to test it since I didn't know how Gasp

I suspected that was the case. Stop at a tractor supply or auto parts supply and see if you can find a 30 amp ammeter (about $10) and install it between your battery and your pos terminal on your cell. I suspect 30 amp will be hard to find and they will suggest a 50 amp version. In that case I'd ask if they can order one for you. Your other option would be to go digital for around $25.

Rick

Links: Documents / Tuning for Mileage | Toyota Sensors | Autoshop Sensor Tutorials
08-31-2008 04:18 PM
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breakz funky beats Offline
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Post: #7
RE: TOWER CRACKED - too much heat or too much pressure?
colchiro Wrote:
breakz funky beats Wrote:To be perfectly honest I don't know how much amps did I have since I never got to test it since I didn't know how Gasp

I suspected that was the case. Stop at a tractor supply or auto parts supply and see if you can find a 30 amp ammeter (about $10) and install it between your battery and your pos terminal on your cell. I suspect 30 amp will be hard to find and they will suggest a 50 amp version. In that case I'd ask if they can order one for you. Your other option would be to go digital for around $25.

I think I found pretty nice on ebay, what do you think, check this out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/30-AMP-DC...0279166991

'97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 6v/4.0l/4x4
08-31-2008 04:35 PM
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saltmine Offline
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Post: #8
RE: TOWER CRACKED - too much heat or too much pressure?
Man, that looks familiar. I have a whole bunch of them sitting on my "archive" shelf in my shop.

I started out building these wire wound, Plexiglas towers, a long time ago. When we were using baking soda and water, there didn't seem to be any problem. When I switched over to Sodium hydroxide, they started failing. I switched to Lexan instead of acrylic, and had some success, but pushing HHO production, I soon discovered the wires were melting into the towers. Strips of stainless steel were used as "bus bars" to get the wire connections below the level of the electrolyte, this solved the melting tower problem, but the towers continued to fracture. After changing the adhesive several times, and adding support plates, and bracing, I discovered that the wires actually resonate and change length as the cell operates. This imparts a twisting torque on the tower. Add higher amperage, and heat, and the tower will fracture every time. The longest lasting tower I have was laminated from two sheets of .092" Lexan, bonded together with an RTV type Lexan adhesive. It still hasn't failed, but it doesn't produce as much HHO as the newer plate cells I'm working on now.
I laminated the sheets by preparing them with acetone, applying an even coat of Lexan adhesive to one sheet, placing the other sheet on top of it, and weight it down with concrete blocks, bricks, pianos, junk cars or anything else you can set on top of it...I let it cure for about 24 hours, then cut all of the tower parts out of it. Something I haven't tried yet is instead of cutting notches in the tower to hold the wire in place, I thought about drilling holes instead. Passing the wires through the holes wouldn't impart any twisting force on the tower, and anchoring the free end of each wire with a short spring would limit the torque there. If anybody tries it, let me know how it worked...
08-31-2008 04:38 PM
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colchiro Offline
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Post: #9
RE: TOWER CRACKED - too much heat or too much pressure?
I like this one better, more accurate.

[Image: 253e_35.JPG]

http://stores.ebay.com/Asia-Engineer_50A...idZ2QQtZkm

Rick

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08-31-2008 04:50 PM
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breakz funky beats Offline
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Post: #10
RE: TOWER CRACKED - too much heat or too much pressure?
colchiro Wrote:I like this one better, more accurate.

[Image: 253e_35.JPG]

http://stores.ebay.com/Asia-Engineer_50A...idZ2QQtZkm

Yeah it looks good and its digital therefore more accurate, only in China; I guess by the time it arrives I'll be putting together milti-cell.
Do you know what this Shunt is?Hmm

'97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 6v/4.0l/4x4
08-31-2008 04:58 PM
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