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dry cell
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striker273 Offline
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Post: #1
dry cell
I am building a series dry cell 4x4 plates -nnnnnn+nnnnnn-nnnnnn+nnnnnn- it is a 29 plate going on a 1999 honda civic lx 1.6 liter eng 14.2 volts single efie I havent tested anything. What can I expect Passible lpm and amp draw What would be the best wiring hook up series or paralell
11-21-2008 08:38 AM
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thomasbala Offline
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Post: #2
RE: dry cell
striker273 Wrote:I am building a series dry cell 4x4 plates -nnnnnn+nnnnnn-nnnnnn+nnnnnn- it is a 29 plate going on a 1999 honda civic lx 1.6 liter eng 14.2 volts single efie I havent tested anything. What can I expect Passible lpm and amp draw What would be the best wiring hook up series or paralell
There are just too many variables such as electrode material, spacing, electrolyte, surface prep, etc. to answer your query. For $79.00 you can buy a pretty good dry cell on e-bay that produces 1 lpm. You'd be time and $$ ahead if you just bought a cell, an EFIE ( or make one: see Gary's post about a simple 1.5 V EFIE anyone can make: http://www.fuel-saver.org/showthread.php...0&page=2); install it and play with it. Think of it as being useless to reinvent the wheel; it's more fun driving. These low gas prices won't last. We need to perfect HHO as best we can to beat big oil. Good Luck.
11-21-2008 07:40 PM
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colchiro Offline
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Post: #3
RE: dry cell
Unless you're wasting a lot of space on your plates due to o-rings, 29 plates is overkill for a little 4 banger. 16 or 21 plates would be plenty.

FWIW, I think you'd be happier with one less neutral in your design. Closer to 2.5 volts per cell is more practical since you don't have to have such a strong electrolyte.

Rick

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(This post was last modified: 11-21-2008 10:17 PM by colchiro.)
11-21-2008 08:24 PM
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striker273 Offline
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Post: #4
RE: dry cell
colchiro Wrote:Unless you're wasting a lot of space on your plates due to o-rings, 29 plates is overkill for a little 4 banger. 16 or 21 plates would be plenty.

FWIW, I think you'd be happier with one less neutral in your design. Closer to 2.5 volts per cell is more practical since you don't have to have such a strong electrolyte.

Im using the shower pan material from Lowes. I will take your advice about the neutral plates and reducing the cell size. I figured it would be better to have more hho then too little. I was worried about heat and amp draw. I have a water4gas piece of s_ _ _ right now producing about a 1/4 lpm and see little to no increase. what would be the setup for a 21 plate would I reduce the neutral plates down to 4 -nnnn+nnnn-nnnn+nnnn-. I was going to use naoh for my electrolyte. What would be the proper pressure to leak test.
(This post was last modified: 11-21-2008 10:17 PM by colchiro.)
11-21-2008 09:07 PM
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colchiro Offline
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Post: #5
RE: dry cell
12 v/5 cells is about 2.4 volts per cell so your config looks good. The better builders recommend splitting that cell in half so each half has it's own inlet and outlet, which reduces pumping of the electrolyte.

Cells don't usually have much pressure on them. It's just that hydrogen is so small it can get out the smallest holes. Besides you don't want caustic stuff leaking out. I don't think you'd want much more than 5 lbs of pressure. That'd be enough to show bubbles if it was under water.

Rick

Links: Documents / Tuning for Mileage | Toyota Sensors | Autoshop Sensor Tutorials
11-21-2008 10:24 PM
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striker273 Offline
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Post: #6
RE: dry cell
colchiro Wrote:12 v/5 cells is about 2.4 volts per cell so your config looks good. The better builders recommend splitting that cell in half so each half has it's own inlet and outlet, which reduces pumping of the electrolyte.

Cells don't usually have much pressure on them. It's just that hydrogen is so small it can get out the smallest holes. Besides you don't want caustic stuff leaking out. I don't think you'd want much more than 5 lbs of pressure. That'd be enough to show bubbles if it was under water.

are you talking about 2 units each having 10 cells. can I just put a T from the reservoir to the cells and a T from the 2 cell outlets to the bubbler and one outlet from the bubbler to the motor
11-22-2008 10:24 AM
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colchiro Offline
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Post: #7
RE: dry cell
That'd be one unit, but the center plate doesn't have holes in it, which splits the functionality into two separate cells, back to back. T's or separate feeds/returns, that would be your choice. I've seen it both ways. This has been discussed in other threads. I think Gary had some input on that.

Rick

Links: Documents / Tuning for Mileage | Toyota Sensors | Autoshop Sensor Tutorials
11-22-2008 10:45 AM
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Gary Offline
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Post: #8
RE: dry cell
Design by my friend Milsolm:


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(This post was last modified: 11-22-2008 02:41 PM by Gary.)
11-22-2008 02:39 PM
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hydrotinkerer Offline
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Post: #9
RE: dry cell
This one is a 25 plate 5n design. The center plate was solid but ran hot over 140*F. After I put 4 holes in the center plate it runs an average of 112*F.


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11-22-2008 04:02 PM
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Gary Offline
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Post: #10
RE: dry cell
That's seemingly odd, because Doug got lower temps when he put in the solid center plate. He did say that the pumping stopped and it began to flow better when he did, so it may have been heating up when the ebb of the pump had it just sitting there.
You said four holes. You mean 3 exhaust and one intake?
What were the stats again? I want to build a unit for my truck that puts out well.
11-22-2008 04:18 PM
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