http://www.fuel-saver.org/ Thu, 02 Sep 2010 23:57:46 -0700 MyBB http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Injection-at-PCV-valve Thu, 02 Sep 2010 03:59:26 -0700 jbalat http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Injection-at-PCV-valve as I increase the amps my car starts running rougher

one theory is that the engine is getting steam, my other theory is that because I am injecting before the MAF then the MAF is getting bubbles of air which makes it run rough ?

Anyway what do you think about injection using a t-piece just before the intake into the pcv line ?]]> as I increase the amps my car starts running rougher

one theory is that the engine is getting steam, my other theory is that because I am injecting before the MAF then the MAF is getting bubbles of air which makes it run rough ?

Anyway what do you think about injection using a t-piece just before the intake into the pcv line ?]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Company-runs-truck-on-100-hydroxy Thu, 26 Aug 2010 02:41:44 -0700 Zipstor http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Company-runs-truck-on-100-hydroxy http://pesn.com/2010/08/10/9501686_Futur...t_Hydroxy/

I'm wondering where is all that supposively compressed hho that he uses to accelerate.... Check out his website there are a couple of good ideas to try out.]]> http://pesn.com/2010/08/10/9501686_Futur...t_Hydroxy/

I'm wondering where is all that supposively compressed hho that he uses to accelerate.... Check out his website there are a couple of good ideas to try out.]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Do-I-have-a-narrow-band-or-wide-band-O2 Tue, 24 Aug 2010 19:38:22 -0700 hector100 http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Do-I-have-a-narrow-band-or-wide-band-O2 http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Before-I-buy Sun, 22 Aug 2010 19:44:48 -0700 SloobyLoo http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Before-I-buy
I am using it to lean out an LPG system that is running slightly too rich.

Thanks
SL]]>
I am using it to lean out an LPG system that is running slightly too rich.

Thanks
SL]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Ford-f-150 Sat, 21 Aug 2010 16:23:04 -0700 bone3160 http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Ford-f-150 I only have 1 o2 sensor !!!!!!!!!!!!!]]> I only have 1 o2 sensor !!!!!!!!!!!!!]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-ignition-wire-diagram Sat, 21 Aug 2010 11:11:25 -0700 schooler23 http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-ignition-wire-diagram http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-2000-Honda-Accord-MPG-gains-disappearing Sat, 21 Aug 2010 06:45:54 -0700 SteveO http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-2000-Honda-Accord-MPG-gains-disappearing My front O2 sensor went bad so I replaced it and when I did I found out it was a wide band sensor. So I put a wide band Efie on it and also treated the secondary sensor. No check engine light now. Initially I got real good results (test 1) 49.2 mpg ( test 2 ) 41.7 mpg ( test 3) 34.7mpg
(test 4) 34.58 mpg (test 5) 31.53 mpg (test 6) 29.04 mpg .
My wide band Efie is tuned between 1/4 and the 1/2 mark and the rear Efie is tuned at about 200 milivolts although it was jumping around a little yesterday. These tests were over the period of a week and pretty much the same roads and driving conditions , same gas station and pump .
Do I need to replace the rear sensor or do I need to treat the map/maf sensor ? Any ideas ?]]> My front O2 sensor went bad so I replaced it and when I did I found out it was a wide band sensor. So I put a wide band Efie on it and also treated the secondary sensor. No check engine light now. Initially I got real good results (test 1) 49.2 mpg ( test 2 ) 41.7 mpg ( test 3) 34.7mpg
(test 4) 34.58 mpg (test 5) 31.53 mpg (test 6) 29.04 mpg .
My wide band Efie is tuned between 1/4 and the 1/2 mark and the rear Efie is tuned at about 200 milivolts although it was jumping around a little yesterday. These tests were over the period of a week and pretty much the same roads and driving conditions , same gas station and pump .
Do I need to replace the rear sensor or do I need to treat the map/maf sensor ? Any ideas ?]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Construction-switch-pressure-3056344 Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:08:17 -0700 cqcummins http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Construction-switch-pressure-3056344 3056344
Construction switch,pressure 3056344
cummins service parts switch,pressure,Construction switch,pressure use for Power Equipment engine , Construction switch,pressure of used equipment diesel , Construction switch,pressure for Road Machinery cummins]]> 3056344
Construction switch,pressure 3056344
cummins service parts switch,pressure,Construction switch,pressure use for Power Equipment engine , Construction switch,pressure of used equipment diesel , Construction switch,pressure for Road Machinery cummins]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Occasional-black-smoke-from-exhaust Thu, 12 Aug 2010 00:25:04 -0700 enterprise http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Occasional-black-smoke-from-exhaust When I increase revs the voltage goes down. when I try to tune the enhancer the the voltage goes down.]]> When I increase revs the voltage goes down. when I try to tune the enhancer the the voltage goes down.]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-volo-chips--3251 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 19:05:29 -0700 Zipstor http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-volo-chips--3251
So what is it? What does it do? Is there a manufacturer website somewhere with all the appropriate specs and data? Is it like an EFiE? Does it leans out the fuel mixture?

If anyone knows please let me know.

Cheers.]]>
So what is it? What does it do? Is there a manufacturer website somewhere with all the appropriate specs and data? Is it like an EFiE? Does it leans out the fuel mixture?

If anyone knows please let me know.

Cheers.]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Smokey-Yunick Thu, 05 Aug 2010 12:59:22 -0700 justing http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Smokey-Yunick http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Max-current Tue, 03 Aug 2010 18:10:34 -0700 Zipstor http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Max-current
I'm looking for the maximum theoretical amount of current I can pull with a dry cell. Dustin, the Smack just told me 500mA per square inch... My cell is has 6x6 plates, 9 plates that's 324 square inches therefore 162A max

Isn't that a bit much don't you reckon?]]>
I'm looking for the maximum theoretical amount of current I can pull with a dry cell. Dustin, the Smack just told me 500mA per square inch... My cell is has 6x6 plates, 9 plates that's 324 square inches therefore 162A max

Isn't that a bit much don't you reckon?]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Save-your-documents Mon, 02 Aug 2010 23:53:26 -0700 Gregrose http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Save-your-documents Paper Shredding Service before, so I had called them. Now I’m free of these documents and so with my office. These guys are taking care of my documents. To preserve my documents Paper Shredding helps me lot. I think every office had the same problems like me so I want to suggest this for you.]]> Paper Shredding Service before, so I had called them. Now I’m free of these documents and so with my office. These guys are taking care of my documents. To preserve my documents Paper Shredding helps me lot. I think every office had the same problems like me so I want to suggest this for you.]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-HHO-bubbling-fails Tue, 20 Jul 2010 12:07:39 -0700 chris0147 http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-HHO-bubbling-fails
I am new on the forum. As I would like you to advice me how to make the bubblers in the water. There are no bubblers in the water, I have got 12v battery which it has got a lot of power in it. I uses the scraps instead of used the ring terminals, which it had fails to produce the electrical in the parallel circuits. So I uses the scraps right now which I can now see the electrical get through it, but there are still no bubblers...


I'd find it strange why it fails. There should have been bubblers in the water after I made the electrical get through in the circuits.


Anyone advice me how to get it right and I also needs some safety tips while I will be working on it...


Thanks!]]>
I am new on the forum. As I would like you to advice me how to make the bubblers in the water. There are no bubblers in the water, I have got 12v battery which it has got a lot of power in it. I uses the scraps instead of used the ring terminals, which it had fails to produce the electrical in the parallel circuits. So I uses the scraps right now which I can now see the electrical get through it, but there are still no bubblers...


I'd find it strange why it fails. There should have been bubblers in the water after I made the electrical get through in the circuits.


Anyone advice me how to get it right and I also needs some safety tips while I will be working on it...


Thanks!]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-hho-injection Sat, 17 Jul 2010 19:07:53 -0700 Razzy http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-hho-injection ]]> ]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-using-hydrogen-system-with-efie-i-need-help Fri, 16 Jul 2010 20:49:13 -0700 rrcolburn http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-using-hydrogen-system-with-efie-i-need-help use your help. Thank you

Here is the way I have this wired and connected:

From the two terminals on top of the generator:

1 wire - negative terminal of battery
1 wire - ammeter

From the EFIE:

green wire - electronic control module
black wire - ground
red wire - generator(which is where i get kinda
confused because theres only two connections for
three wires. So what goes where?

From the relay:

blue wire - fuse wire -fuse - to the positive
terminal of the battery
Yellow wire -ammeter
black wire - ground

2001 Toyota Tacoma 2wd automatic 4cyl.
When your looking at the ecm from the passenger seat its my understanding the first group of wires is group D then C then B then A. If i did this right the sensor wire(the green wire from the efie) is out of group C(because it produced approximately 3.o -3.? v and is pink in color and is connected like a Y.

My question is how do the wires connect to the generator?
I have 3 wires and 2 terminals?

Did I choose the correct wire from the ecm?

What type of connector should I use to connect the clear tubing to the air intake which is after the maf/sensor?]]> use your help. Thank you

Here is the way I have this wired and connected:

From the two terminals on top of the generator:

1 wire - negative terminal of battery
1 wire - ammeter

From the EFIE:

green wire - electronic control module
black wire - ground
red wire - generator(which is where i get kinda
confused because theres only two connections for
three wires. So what goes where?

From the relay:

blue wire - fuse wire -fuse - to the positive
terminal of the battery
Yellow wire -ammeter
black wire - ground

2001 Toyota Tacoma 2wd automatic 4cyl.
When your looking at the ecm from the passenger seat its my understanding the first group of wires is group D then C then B then A. If i did this right the sensor wire(the green wire from the efie) is out of group C(because it produced approximately 3.o -3.? v and is pink in color and is connected like a Y.

My question is how do the wires connect to the generator?
I have 3 wires and 2 terminals?

Did I choose the correct wire from the ecm?

What type of connector should I use to connect the clear tubing to the air intake which is after the maf/sensor?]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-dry-cell-mounting-position Wed, 14 Jul 2010 08:39:39 -0700 mikehallbackhoe http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-dry-cell-mounting-position http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-sensor-control Mon, 12 Jul 2010 14:32:24 -0700 tobbias http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-sensor-control http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Engine-cut-off-switch Thu, 08 Jul 2010 22:54:41 -0700 Mika http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Engine-cut-off-switch
I'd like to share my new experience with you, I have been playing with ignition key and switched the ignition off and switched the gear to neutral when there's a downhill.

Guess what. On the first trip I tried it, there's a road where my car uses normally 6.5l/100km (according to car computer) when I drive easily. Now, when switching the engine off when needed and rolled downhill, the consumption was only 5.0l/100km!

I think it would be worth it to make a ignition cut-off button to the gearshift so that the engine could be turned off when not needed. I calculated that I saved about two euros on that trip which only was 120 km...

I would not recommend this to your big trucks and suv:s, because when engine is off, so is power steering, and the vacuum in your brake booster won't last many brakings and a big truck would be difficult to stop after that. But on a small or medium size car, you can easily handle it on speed without engine running. My car is 1250 kg and has (too) heavy 17' wheels and there's no problem.

Also, if you play around with your ignition key, don't forget to turn the ignition on after turning off the engine, or your steering wheel might lock. ]]>
I'd like to share my new experience with you, I have been playing with ignition key and switched the ignition off and switched the gear to neutral when there's a downhill.

Guess what. On the first trip I tried it, there's a road where my car uses normally 6.5l/100km (according to car computer) when I drive easily. Now, when switching the engine off when needed and rolled downhill, the consumption was only 5.0l/100km!

I think it would be worth it to make a ignition cut-off button to the gearshift so that the engine could be turned off when not needed. I calculated that I saved about two euros on that trip which only was 120 km...

I would not recommend this to your big trucks and suv:s, because when engine is off, so is power steering, and the vacuum in your brake booster won't last many brakings and a big truck would be difficult to stop after that. But on a small or medium size car, you can easily handle it on speed without engine running. My car is 1250 kg and has (too) heavy 17' wheels and there's no problem.

Also, if you play around with your ignition key, don't forget to turn the ignition on after turning off the engine, or your steering wheel might lock. ]]> http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-EFIE-Question--3239 Tue, 06 Jul 2010 16:00:14 -0700 SloobyLoo http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-EFIE-Question--3239
I have a slightly different use for the EFIE than the HHO norm around here, my car runs on LPG and Petrol. While running on LPG the AFR sensor returns readings that cause the cars ECU to run the car too rich on LPG. I want to apply a correctional voltage to the AFR signal while the LPG system is on.

I have looked at the Dual Wide Band EFIE and I can see how to hook it up but it appears to me that there is no place to hook up the incoming signal to the ECU. Am I correct in thinking that the EFIE does not apply a correctional voltage but in fact generates a completely separate and autonomous signal? I actually want to correct the signal by x% some of the time (while on LPG) but otherwise have the thing running as normal.

Making sense?

Thanks in advance.

S]]>
I have a slightly different use for the EFIE than the HHO norm around here, my car runs on LPG and Petrol. While running on LPG the AFR sensor returns readings that cause the cars ECU to run the car too rich on LPG. I want to apply a correctional voltage to the AFR signal while the LPG system is on.

I have looked at the Dual Wide Band EFIE and I can see how to hook it up but it appears to me that there is no place to hook up the incoming signal to the ECU. Am I correct in thinking that the EFIE does not apply a correctional voltage but in fact generates a completely separate and autonomous signal? I actually want to correct the signal by x% some of the time (while on LPG) but otherwise have the thing running as normal.

Making sense?

Thanks in advance.

S]]>